LJ70 Build Thread!

[Ben]

I borrowed my mates engine crane, so that i could lift and position the spare 37" tyre so i could take my measurements.

I needed to work out a way of mounting the spindle to the bumper, without it obscuring the rear light.
So after having a look through my metal pile in the shed, i found a piece of the chunky 10mm thick angle, that i used for my front recovery points.

Checked it didnt obstruct the rear door from opening.

The angle was 4", and after measuring i decided it would be better if it was 3".

Man 10mm thick steel takes some cutting, even with a thin slitting disc in the 9" grinder!

The next job was to drill a 32mm hole through the 10mm thick angle.

No hilti 110v drill from work today, so i had to use my cordless.

managed to do it without changing the battery. plenty of cutting fluid and a sharp hole saw made light work of it.

I decided that this spindle mount would also be bolted to the bumper, which would allow me to insert a piece of 6mm steel plate inside the bumper, to reinforce it a bit.

So i drilled some holes through the angle, and then drilled through these into the bumper to mark where the bolts needed to be.

Marked and cut what i needed to remove from the bottom of the spindle.

Cut a piece of 75mm x 10mm flat to length and clamped it in position.

Clamped the spindle in place.

And tack welded the bottom the spindle to the 75mm flat.

I then removed the spindle and 75mm flat from the angle, and fully welded the spindle on.

I also welded some nuts to the inside of the angle, to create captive nuts.

I then put it back through the angle, cranked the amp's right up on the welder and melted a few rods into the 10mm thick steel.

Welded the top of the spindle to the angle.

Cut some 4mm thick plate on the guillotine to cap the ends off with.

Tack welded in place.

Got the bumper off and on some trestles.

Piece of 6mm steel cut to fit perfectly inside the box section.

Slid it in place, drilled through the holes in the bumper, then gave it a quick lick of paint.

So i slid the plate back inside the bumper, and bolted through that and into the spindle mount.

Skinned my knuckles a bit getting the bolts done up though.

Welded all the way around the mount, and then got the bumper re-fitted on the truck.

So this morning I got the spare re-positioned and measured up for the arm.

Dragged a length of 50mm box out of the shed and got it on the bench.

After cutting the first length of box i needed to notch the end to fit the tube.

cut and ground the notch, and then tried the box in position.

Tack welded it in place.

Spare back in place for final measure up.

Cut and welded 2 pieces of box together, and then positioned it on the arm.

Back into the workshop to get it welded on.

The joys of using an ARC instead of a MIG, means that I have to keep turning what im welding for optimum results.

Done and back on the truck.

Braces next.

The most technical cut on the whole project.

Welded it together.

Other side.

And back on the truck.

Needed to make the piece that the actual wheel will mount to next.

This is the steel i got that i thought would do the job, but after measuring it, it was 12mm thick which i decided was over kill.

So i found an off cut of 6mm from my first steering guard.

cut it to size.

And marked and centre punched ready for drilling.

Knocked some studs out of an old 4-Runner wheel hub.

Plate drilled and studs.

Due to the fact the thread doesnt go all the way down the stud, i found some nuts which were a tight fit, but would just push down the studs.

Dropped the studs through the nuts in the vice, ready for welding.

Positioned the plate behind a spare wheel and did the nuts up to centre the studs in the holes in the plate. (i drilled the holes in the plate bigger than the size of the studs to allow for a few mm of movement.)

And welded the nuts/studs in place.

Took it off the wheel, and i now have a plate with studs welded in place at the perfect stud pattern.

 

[sae70]

Looks great m8

Shame you couldn't get that on there so you could still open the small rear door. When you get to OZ and they make you fit a set of 31" tyres you'll probably have the room then to get the small door open

Do you think you'll have your list completed for Lincomb? Not sure I'm on top of my one

 

[AndyCook]

wow - great engineering project and tidy welds for an ARC welder (well compared to some of mine )
looking great!

 

[Chris]

Nice Ben, I think the spindle mount looks good and strong with little chance for flex at all. Not sure you needed to brace right to the top of the wheel mount, you'd have got away with shorter support than that I think. One thing to remember is how to get the spare up there on your own out in the field. I was using my HL jack, but now I have a 5" lift it won't reach!!!!

On the latch, I actually used a spring loaded gate latch from an agricultural merchant. I modded it a bit in the end, but essentially that's all it was. Hey happy to help you out with a made one - I've done a few now. A hold open latch is really useful too - trust me.

Chris

 

[Ben]

Thanks guys.

Steven, of course everything will be done for Lincomb!

Thanks Chris.

Regarding the latch, im thinking of buying the stainless jobbie i linked to earlier. I dont doubt that your spring latch works well, im sure it does. but.................................

I want a latch/catch that pulls the swing out arm in and down, and holds it tightly against the bumper.

Ive got to think of the future, and if everything goes to plan im going to be doing thousands of miles in the toughest terrain on the planet, with a fair few corrugations im sure.

So although £50+ for a latch is lot, im hoping it will be worth it, if it last many years to come.

Just trying to finish today's blog, that i didnt get time to finish earlier as had to go out for a meal.

 

[Ben]

So i tried the plate back on the truck to see how it looked.

Bloody excellent clamps these. a few £'s each from Aldi, and very useful.

Back on the work bench to fully weld it on.

Great penetration on the welds, so no worry of it falling off.

Back out with the 4mm plate, and onto the guillotine, to cut a gusset.

Clamped it in place.

And welded it in place.

Back on the truck.

Need to order and fit a gas strut to stop it obliterating my rear light.

My other consideration when building this swing out wheel carrier, was that it would fit my other set of wheels. 35" x 12.5" on 10J rims with a -35mm off set.

My measurements worked out perfectly.

Needed to cap off the open end of box section.

Cut a 4mm plate on the guillotine.

And welded it on.

After looking at the technical drawings for the latch im going to buy, i welded on a plate, to fit my intended latch.

Then a quick grind all over with a flap wheel disc in the grinder, and a wipe with a rag soaked in cellulose and it was ready for paint.

Red oxide primer.

Primed the bit welded to the bumper.

 

[Ben]

Forgot to say, Chris.............. I can just lift the 37 on and off the mount.

If it was a wheel id just changed that was covered in mud/clay, then i think id struggle. But a clean tyre is just about OK.

 

[Graham]

Amazing,
How on earth do you manage to get so much done, and get the photos taken?
Do you do the photo's yourself, or does some one else "snap away" while you are building and making?

I hope the solid steel pin doesn't bend, it looks strong enough, actually it looks strong enough to pick the truck up by !!

Gra.

 

[Ben]

Thanks Gra.

I take all the pics myself.

If i had some one else taking them id be able to have some pics of me welding. Welding pics always look cool!

I guess taking the pics and updating my build thread is part of the hobby for me now.

 

[Graham]

Still don't know how you manage it,
It must disrupt your workflow some thing terrible at times.
Well, good for you getting it on, and showing us,

Gra.

 

[Chris]

Trust me Ben, the spring pin idea is a winner. There is zero movement in my carrier with a wheel on. I mean zero and the pin engages about 50mm into the bumper. I made a plastic slider block that supports the carrier when it's shut and a stop that doesn't allow the carrier to go any further than that. Then the pin drops in and it's locked. It really is so simple to lock and unlock.

With latches, you need to get them working well in terms of design. The work best front to back instead of side to side really - that's where they are strongest I think.

Chris

 

[Ben]

First job this morning was to re-fit the arm onto the bumper, and as i dont think it needs to come off again I could pack the bearings with grease.

Oil seal fitted.

And arm back on.

This is the plate that the latch will mount to.

Marked and cut a piece of 10mm steel. This will be welded to the bumper, and will help support the weight of the wheel carrier and wheel, while the wheel carrier is shut.

Im not sure where I found this, it was probably found in a derelict building or in a factory we cleared. Anyway I thought it looked useful and its been in my workshop for the last few years.

It measures 50mm wide and is 10mm thick. It feels like polyurethane, and is very strong and flexible.

I knew it would be perfect for this job.

So i positioned the cut piece of 10mm plate, with the poly strip between it and the wheel carrier.

This gave me the position of the 10mm plate.

Ground the paint off.

And welded it on.

Coat of red oxide primer.

Cut a piece of the poly strip off.

Cut one end on an angle to fit over the seam of weld.

I scored the back of the poly, and then stuck it in position with Sika flex.

I then left it for about 4 hours, by which time i hoped the sika flex might have set. but it hadnt.

So I pilot drilled, and then screwed in a black phosphate coated, self tapping drywall screw.

I then gave it its first coat of black paint.

Very pleased with my weekends work!

Need to give it another coat of black paint, and fit the latch and gas strut and then its finished!

 

[Graham]

Good, up to the normal "Ben" standard.

So now the clamp, the next important thing.

Gra.

 

[Ben]

Thanks Gra.

Latch should be here tomorrow.

Going to my mates tonight to see what gas struts hes got which might be suitable.

Failing that i spotted some on ebay that didnt look bad.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/221123118...WAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649#ht_654wt_884

 

[revs4x4]

cracking job Ben, very tidy indeed

 

[Ben]

Thanks mate.

Had to get up early today so i could get the truck drivable.

Fitted the split pin through the castle nut.

And tapped the cover in/on the top.

Lifted the spare on.

Used a ratchet strap to secure the carrier against the bumper.

So after work i went to my mates, to see what gas strut's hed got.

He told me about all the flash flooded lanes hed been driving through, and how he turned around at one particular ford which he decided was too deep!

Like I needed anymore encouragement!

The lanes were fun, with whole half mile sections a foot under water! Certainly did a great job of washing the underneath of the truck.

Then we went to the ford at Seighford.

http://wetroads.co.uk/staffordshire.htm

I hoped it would be 6ft deep and so half way up the windscreen, but in reality it was only 4 and a half foot deep.

Still fun though.

Wheel carrier held up well.

 

[Shaun]

Good work Ben looks well engineered !
Advantages of this wet weather is all the wading we can do
Still on with my 70 will post pics when completed, just finding time to work on it is near impossible at the moment !!! :-(

 

[Ben]

Thanks Shaun.

Looking forward to the updates on yours.

 

[Ben]

I had a delivery today!

A nice shiny stainless steel latch.

Got to love quality German engineering!

 

[Ben]

Set the tarp up and made a start on fitting the latch tonight.

Marked where the holes needed to be.

Drilled the holes and bolted it on.

Marked where the holes needed to be for the keep.

Drilled them, and attempted to bolt it on.

Was a bit of a struggle and took quite a while, due to the fact it was difficult to get the nuts on the other side, and i really wasnt in the mood to take the bumper off.

Found some duck tape helped to hold the nut on the spanner, while i got the thread started.

And on.

Works perfectly so im pretty stoked with it.

Because its got the 10mm thick polyurethane strip on the back of the carrier, it means the latch is pulling the carrier in and down.

Ben, I went with a spring loaded pin instead of a latch and I can say that I have not regretted that for a second. It's very quick, secure and takes no effort. When you are in and out of the boot all the time I figured a latch would be a PITA. I also did another spring bolt on the open position so it didn't close on me. I did do build thread IIRC. I changed the main bolt at one point as I wanted something a bit bigger. It's an easy thing to make.

Chris

Trust me Ben, the spring pin idea is a winner. There is zero movement in my carrier with a wheel on. I mean zero and the pin engages about 50mm into the bumper. I made a plastic slider block that supports the carrier when it's shut and a stop that doesn't allow the carrier to go any further than that. Then the pin drops in and it's locked. It really is so simple to lock and unlock.

With latches, you need to get them working well in terms of design. The work best front to back instead of side to side really - that's where they are strongest I think.

Chris