Oil Pan Removal

[Mblinko]

my sump gasket is weeping along its length so I was considering replacing it, but before I do, is there anything special to note?

The FSM indicates it's simple but I have read elsewhere that the engine needs to be lifted or jacked up to get the pan from around the pick up.

Don't want to bite off more than I can chew.

 

[Dave2000]

No lifting of the engine at all on the 12v so I would assume the same for you. FIPG used by Mr T sticks like **it to the proverbial blanket. I used blow torch to heat and then got a small paint scraper in, once scraper started I tapped it around the gasket and sump fell away.

regards

Dave

 

[Dave2000]

Meant to add, drain oil the night before and leave plug out, cuts down on drips. Put back sump using RTV sealant if you cannot get OE sealer.

regards

Dave

 

[frank rabbets]

If it's not been off since Toyota glued it on it could be difficult. As Dave says once you have something in between the sump and the block you've done the worst bit. I managed to get a stainless steel knife blade in there and then hammered it round using the hammer as close to the the sump as possible. I used silicone sealer to fix mine back on. I had to let the oil dribble out overnight so I could properly degrease the block. Then not too much sealer so bits don't drop into the sump and block the oil pick up.

 

[Chris]

You need to know: it's actually double skinned so make sure you are between the sump pan and the block and not in the layers of the pan. Start front corner and be brutal. It won't come off by talking nicely to it. You WILL bend it a bit but that's not a problem. It bends back. Don't nanny around, get in there with a knife, then a screwdriver, then a pry bar and tear that sucker off.

 

[Towpack]

I had the vehicle up on ramps when I did mine and had to raise the chassis with a jack to 'drop' the suspension to get the sump out. If it's up on stands supporting the chassis it amounts to the same thing. I made a tool by welding an old knife blade to the end of a steel bar so I could force the blade between the sump/block surfaces and tap it round with a hammer which made light work of breaking the seal. IIRC I also had to remove a bracket(s) from the rear of the block/bellhousing area. I resealed it with blue silicone gasket sealer, some Hermatite stuff I think it was.

 

[Dave2000]

I had the vehicle up on ramps when I did mine and had to raise the chassis with a jack to 'drop' the suspension to get the sump out. If it's up on stands supporting the chassis it amounts to the same thing. I resealed it with blue silicone gasket sealer, some Hermatite stuff I think it was.

Never thought about that, mine was jacked up and supported on axle stands under the chassis, so the front axle would have hung away from the engine. The blue sealer may have been 'Hylomar', used it years ago when assembling Jag V12's, good stuff but never seen it here.

regards

Dave

 

[frank rabbets]

Aston Martin used Hylomar. It went off quite quickly but only to a level where it stayed soft forever. Dreadful stuff to get off your hands.

 

[davidsmith1307]

Aston Martin used Hylomar. It went off quite quickly but only to a level where it stayed soft forever. Dreadful stuff to get off your hands.

It is used as standard on Land Rovers to try and keep at least some of the oil in the engine.

 

[Mblinko]

It is used as standard on Land Rovers to try and keep at least some of the oil in the engine.

Would I be better off using primula cheese then ?

 

[davidsmith1307]

Would I be better off using primula cheese then ?

Not the prawn one as it makes your oil stink.

 

[Mblinko]

LOL

Thanks for all the advice, good to know what to expect.

 

[Dave2000]

Best is RTV sealant, oil/water/grease/heat and god knows what else resistant.

Re Land Rover and the Hylomar connection, back in the 70's it was used on the steel shim 'valley' gasket on the Rover V8, for whatever reason did work better than Hermatite, the only reason I can think of was that Hermatite did a different colour for whatever you needed to seal up, the 'shim' needed to be sealed against oil/water and air so Hylomar it was.

RTV mentioned above also does not set hard but like Hylomar has a soft centre, both are good........hmmm there was a sweet that had a soft centre.......

regards

Dave

 

[Towpack]

Never thought about that, mine was jacked up and supported on axle stands under the chassis, so the front axle would have hung away from the engine. The blue sealer may have been 'Hylomar', used it years ago when assembling Jag V12's, good stuff but never seen it here.

regards


Dave

Definitely wasn't Blue Hylomar. I always have a tube in the garage but used silicone sealer for the sump. That long ago I can't remember the brand for definite. May have been this stuff..http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-X-Locti...216422?hash=item51ad24baa6:g:u8IAAMXQkcZRllbc Was definitely silicone and blue.

 

[Chris]

I used RTV on both mine.

On important point though with the sealant. Some of the bolt holes in the bottom of the block are blind. On one, I got sealant in the hole and as I tightened up the bolt, it hydraulically spalled off a piece of the casting! Went with a right ping. No real issue in the final analysis but not something I'd plan to do again.

 

[frank rabbets]

Dave I built loads of those Rover V8 engines and never used any sealer on the valley gasket nor the head gaskets and never had a failure. The ones I used had a crinkle round their edges and this bit into the aluminium creating the seal.

 

[Dave2000]

Dave I built loads of those Rover V8 engines and never used any sealer on the valley gasket nor the head gaskets and never had a failure. The ones I used had a crinkle round their edges and this bit into the aluminium creating the seal.

I cannot remember now Frank, it was when I got the engine built and fitted in one of my Granada´s, I then found water getting into the crankcase. Spoke to the mechanic at Bonalacks (remember them?) and they mentioned Hylomar, I was running a Holley four barrel with modified inlet manifold, perhaps the welding mods to fit the carb caused distortion? Ayway, Hylomar sorted it, later on I was told that Astons were using it on aluminium heads to inlet manifolds instead of gaskets?

Anyway OP, RTV it is!

Regards

Dave

 

[Mblinko]

Yes, on my shopping list. Thanks all.

 

[frank rabbets]

Yes Dave I used hylomar on the head gaskets and on the 3 inlet manifolds on the Aston Martins. They were all aluminium engines and only had one gasket that being on the head. Only one oil seal as well on the front crank. The rear had a scroll on the shaft and a close fitting sleeve which worked very well until the main bearings got play.