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Project 80: Codename Grey Ghost
- Thread starter Chris
- Start date
I'm gutted by this news, the Ghost has been coming along beautifully up to now, just dunno what to say.... 
Well I need to drive it about a bit Clive. Got Lincomb coming up twice in a short space of time, so it can have a run down the motorway. Still think I need better quality oil in the box actually. Sure what I have in meets all the specs, but I just can't help feeling that it's not really oil?
I can run without the front prop as I have been doing til now but that's not really the right answer.
I can run without the front prop as I have been doing til now but that's not really the right answer.
- Joined
- May 20, 2010
- Messages
- 5,812
This doesn't sound good Chris.
The vc will engage after the prop flange is turned. It doesn't engage straight away I don't think.
The vc will engage after the prop flange is turned. It doesn't engage straight away I don't think.
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- Joined
- May 20, 2010
- Messages
- 5,812
Does it feel tight when driving it on tarmac when both props are on?
Hey up fella. Tight, no not at all. The VC is most definitely working though. I can drive with no front prop on and the CD unlocked. I have done just about every combination you can think of here and I just couldn't work out this noise, a rattling and clattering sort of noise especially when you let off the accelrerator. So I had it up on stands today in gear and running. When you have a bit of power on, it's goes quiet. But when you let it coast, remember there is no resistance at the wheels, but they are big wheels flopping around you get the clattering going on. Get under the vehicle and it's as clear as anything where the noise is coming from. With no front prop on it's ok but as soon as you load it with the prop and diffs it seems to affect the transfer box.
I've had one of thse to bits before and they are MASSIVE inside so I just don't know what's going on. One day I'll get the thing just right.
I've had one of thse to bits before and they are MASSIVE inside so I just don't know what's going on. One day I'll get the thing just right.
Finally, got the prop back into phase. After days of twatting around, I pulled the front prop from the green one and measured the angles of off set on the splines and put the manual prop back together. Each of the splines = 18 degrees by the way folks so you can only set the yoke on the splines at those intervals. This morning I started with the props phased at what I'd call zero. In other words the two inner yokes (the ones on the inner ends of the shaft) lined up. The outer diff ends of course are then lined up too but 90 degrees rotated. It didn't like that at all. I tried it then by turning the whole splined section by 90 degrees so that the UJs were still lined up, but instead of the two inner bearing caps being aligned, I had on inner and one outer lined up. Oddly this felt better. I can only assume that this is something to do with prop angle rather than UJ phasing. Anyway. It was then that I copied the green prop by taking it off. I had tried to do it under the vehicle in the past but clearly I wasn't on the money. As soon as I set off, I could feel the difference. Smoother, more power, less noise. Now would I say it was perfect? No, but I have had it up to motorway speed and it's fine. I guess I am just battling so many variables. I could have just put some boxes in the boot, a duvet and a stove and accomplished the same sort of trips with no fuss or expense. Yeah, I COULD have. Nah.
So things are a lot happier Chez nous tonight. Bit more tweaking tomorrow just to see if I can find any of the other noises that are making me frown. I will get there.
So things are a lot happier Chez nous tonight. Bit more tweaking tomorrow just to see if I can find any of the other noises that are making me frown. I will get there.
Towpack
Well-Known Member
Chris,
Am I missing something or reading you wrong or are you trying to phase the front and rear props together? Surely there's no point in doing this as they won't stay phased for long with an open CD? I get phasing 2 UJ's on the same prop but on different props?
Well you might say 'so what took you so long'
Thing is that I was having issues with the flange angles as they were and split the prop to try to cure them. Only to find my match marks had rubbed off. But thinking that the way the prop was set up in the first place didn't suit the diffs, I wasn't that bothered. But all hell broke loose as you know from the thread. Then I dropped the rad arms to get things square again, I figured that I'd put the prop back to OEM. Recent attempts just didn't work. Props are tricky things and as I said earlier, each spline is 18 degrees. You can't set it at 45 degrees for example as some books suggest. What that does is make the prop symmetrical but whilst out of phase, one end is 1/4 ered and the other end is 1/8 thed. This allows things to run smoother. Well you can't on a Toyota. So if you set it, say 54 degrees off set, you can do that two ways. 54 forward or 54 backwards. Advance and retarded I suppose. I think I was retarded. No. Oooh don't. Titter ye not!
Ha ha, no TP. I am not trying to phase the front and rear prop. Ha ha. I might be daft, but I'm totally gah gah. This is all about the alignment of the front prop end to end with one set of fixed yokes and one set that can be rotated on the splined slip joint.
Thing is that I was having issues with the flange angles as they were and split the prop to try to cure them. Only to find my match marks had rubbed off. But thinking that the way the prop was set up in the first place didn't suit the diffs, I wasn't that bothered. But all hell broke loose as you know from the thread. Then I dropped the rad arms to get things square again, I figured that I'd put the prop back to OEM. Recent attempts just didn't work. Props are tricky things and as I said earlier, each spline is 18 degrees. You can't set it at 45 degrees for example as some books suggest. What that does is make the prop symmetrical but whilst out of phase, one end is 1/4 ered and the other end is 1/8 thed. This allows things to run smoother. Well you can't on a Toyota. So if you set it, say 54 degrees off set, you can do that two ways. 54 forward or 54 backwards. Advance and retarded I suppose. I think I was retarded. No. Oooh don't. Titter ye not!
Ha ha, no TP. I am not trying to phase the front and rear prop. Ha ha. I might be daft, but I'm totally gah gah. This is all about the alignment of the front prop end to end with one set of fixed yokes and one set that can be rotated on the splined slip joint.
One down, well done, but at least one to go Chris (TB), watching with interest.
Maybe I wrote it wrong. Look I have tried to draw it. If you ONLY look at the spider bearing, this doesn't make any sense. There is no North and South, but the minute you put them into the yokes you get an inner and outer section hence being able to phase one end with the other in 4 different quarters across the bearing caps. 0, 90, 180 and 270. 0 and 180 being the same obviously as are 90 and 270. But if you can go 45 degrees out you can stop off at 8 different positions. But you CAN'T with 18 deg intervals. 0, 18, 36, 54, 72, 90 etc. So the prop has ended up at an odd number. Mr T must have a reason for that but I don't know what that is. The rear prop is perfectly aligned.
Blown80
Well-Known Member
Awwww...c'mon Chris.......there's a year's worth of material there. Let us have a bit of fun with it....
But great to hear she's running good and PROPer now.... (Best I could do under current restrictions)
- Joined
- Mar 1, 2010
- Messages
- 5,527
Chris you are barking up the wrong tree again. You are not understanding the definition of phase. If you turn one flange by 90 degrees that propshaft will be 100 % out of phase. Believe me I've made propshafts and been to driveline where they used to make them. It's all in the workshop manual as well and on line. REF RME315 PR3 and PR4. This shows the out of phase front prop of an 80.
For example with match marks aligned turning one flange :-
In Phase say 0 degrees (Match marks aligned)
Out phase 90 degrees
In phase 180 degrees
Out phase 270 degrees
In Phase 360 degrees (Match marks aligned again).
That's the theory but whether your splines will let you do this is another story. The match marks are as much for balance as for phasing. On some props the splines are equally cut c/w 360 degrees and it is possible for one to be assembled 180 wrong with regard to balance but in exactly the same phase as before. So the match marks on these are purely for balance.
For example with match marks aligned turning one flange :-
In Phase say 0 degrees (Match marks aligned)
Out phase 90 degrees
In phase 180 degrees
Out phase 270 degrees
In Phase 360 degrees (Match marks aligned again).
That's the theory but whether your splines will let you do this is another story. The match marks are as much for balance as for phasing. On some props the splines are equally cut c/w 360 degrees and it is possible for one to be assembled 180 wrong with regard to balance but in exactly the same phase as before. So the match marks on these are purely for balance.
