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Rear Diff Lock

C

Chrisvespec

Active Member
Joined
Jul 26, 2012
Messages
58
Hi all...
Anyone any ideas as to get round this common problem as my motor is shot, carnt afford to get new one from milners...
 
Well I am sorry to say that you probably answered your own question there mate. If it's shot then there IS only one answer. Get one. There isn't any sort of work around that you can do with coat-hangers and string if that's that you are looking for. There are sometimes second hand one, try Karl on here. It's worth having a crack at the rear ones though unless it's in bits on your drive. The rear ones are different to the front ones and a bit more robust. You can glue the motor magnets back in for example. Clean the crud out and give them a fettle. You can often resurect them. But you have to get it off first to see what's up with it.

Sorreeee


Chris
 
Have seen a chaps pik on IH8MUD of a manual set up, well the actuator part as his thread said he was figuring out the cable set up for a handbrake type lever in the cab, there has to be a way round that frigin motor setup, im an engineer so wont be using coathangers and string....
Have already started to sort a way round, drilled end of actuator rod so can thread a bolt down it, drilled hole into casing and attached a cable, works in principle as in engages and dissingages lock but earl days yet so any more ideas would be good...
 
Nothing wrong with wire and string in the right circumstances you know :whistle: :whistle:

Well it does sound like you are part way there. I don't think anyone has rigged up anything like that on here. We just stick new motors on. If you get to one that works, it can be kept running pretty much forever. If it's had a lifetime of inaction and 'goes over' so to speak, it's difficult to restore them. Often corrosion is the enemy and once the casing is through the salt gets in and that's game over. I would like to see an electro-magnet design, that could be interesting. Where the factory mech scores is its ability to fire and store the energy in the clock spring until everything lines up. It's a fire and forget system. You could do with a cable that tensions a spring in the same way so that it can fire into lock when it's ready rather then have to tug on the cable til it finally works Also getting it out of lock could be interesting under wind up conditions. It would be better perhaps to pull to unlock, but push the cable in to lock rather than the other way around.

Chris
 
I think the tricky bit is coming up with something as neat and reliable as the factory install without spending so much time on it you'd have been better off buying a new one. As Chris says it's a one time purchase if you look after it so it's not like it will wear out.
 
I had the same problem with my front mech. Karl Webster kindly sold me a second hand unit at an affordable price, the front mech was quoted to me by my service shop at over 1,000 Euro [new part(s) only] :o :shock: .

Anyway, the string and wire option will make interesting reading on the thread in the weeks to come, and I take my hat off to anyone that makes a serious effort to resolve issues by unconventional means. Nothing wrong with improvisation and I think Chris' comment of a push-on/pull-off configuration is very constructive. :clap:

I understand that there aren't many alternatives to the original set-up, ARB air-lockers can't be fitted to a factory locked diff, only to open diffs and then you run the cost of ARB which isn't cheap either.

Best bet IMO is second-hand (hi Karl) otherwise it's the string and wire approach, but only after the wire brush and superglue option has been explored!

Best of luck, I'll be looking out for progress updates on this thread with interest. Pics as well please to see how bad your old unit is and the new string and wire set up when you've cracked it!!
 
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There is a man building air lockers for 80 series, he recons he should be able to do them a lot cheaper the Toyota ones.

Paul
 
I have a second hand one I guess is spare if Karl hasn't got any.
 
I have a pair, but they are locked in a special place with a sign that says "you can look, but touch them I shall chop your fingers off with a rusty spoon." They are right next to a file marked 'pension plan' :lol:

Chris
 
I'm looking at making a simple setup at the moment based on the shogun front axle system. You need a vacuum/pneumatic actuator and vacuum solenoid. The idea is that the locker is spring loaded into the locked position by default. When you start the engine and generate the vacuum a 12v supply opens the solenoid and and the ram disengages the locker against the spring. when you flick the switch it earths the solenoid releasing the vacuum and the spring engages the lever.

The technical bit is finding a suitable solenoid with the required travel and power, then mounting it to the axle (but not difficult). I.m thinking of using the vacuum from the airbox but need to see how the fluctuating vacuum levels with. I'm going to start with the shogun pieces and see if they can be used. Solenoids where £10 for the pair and £20 for the actuator off an old shogun. Unfortunately I thin it will be a month before i can get any time on it but will log the details when I get to it.
 
IRLGW said:
The idea is that the locker is spring loaded into the locked position by default.
Click to expand...

:o :o

I'd be very wary of having a locker that failed in the locked position - is that how the system works on Shoguns ??

Having a bad electrical contact or losing the vacuum on the open road could be nasty.

Bob.
 
I had a shogun centre diff lock in the locked position

was a royal pain to free it off until i worked out what was happening.
the small thin vacuum pipe get to soft as they age - i went over some rough bumps and the pipe collapses on itself as it bounces about and then its locked.

no amount of back and forth would free it off.

i got under the truck and when i worked it out cutting off a few inches length off the pipe stopped it flexing and collapsing. solved the problem and it never repeated. had me stumped for several hours.

i would have thought some kind of spring loaded lever would be best. slide the lever to the locked position and use the same sort of spring arrangement the current diff lock uses to apply pressure to the lock pin so when the teeth line up it moves to lock position.
move lever the other way and it unlocks

I've seem something similar on ih8mud i recall that looks workable.
 
There used to be a company that made cable lockers for the 80, I don't think they were overly succesful though.

I think the company was called Downey?
 
The Shogun rear locker is compressed air but the front axle (not locker though similar principle) is only engaged when you select 4wdh. The shogun is only rear wheel drive normally. The chances are that so long as your engine is running or if you can create a ballast vacuum (also very easy) then the system is open. The only thing that can really go wrong is that the hose becomes damaged but that's an easy fix. If the ballast is fitted close to the locker then the length of hose is minimal.

It is certainly a very cost effective system if you are on a low budget and don't want to fork out £450. I never had a problem with the system on my shogun. If you are really scared about it doing it this way then just spring load the pin to be open and use the micro compressor from a shogun (situated in the nearside rear wing) to fire a pneumatic actuator in to engage the locking arm instead. I've not removed the rear actuator from the shogun but it is possible that it could be modified to fit a LC
 
Just an update on this post, managed to get an actuator off a fellow member on here, many thanks to Jon Wildsmith, you saved my sanity..... :lol:
It was a second hand unit that works a treat so anyone out there who finds themselves in the same predicament as i was in trying to find one they are out there so just keep looking.
Just a tip on fitting one if people dont already know this is, went a treat for me, 1st make sure the acuator rod is extended as in the locked position, do this by just connecting the power, with ignition on, in low box, switch to 1st position RR, then ign off, your acuator rod will now be extended, dissconect from plug, jack the rear offside wheel off the ground, put lowbox into neutral so you now can spin wheel freely, lever the fork in the diff into lock position so now wheel is locked, actuator will now slide into position and easy to thread 10mm bolt to fork, dont worry about the small gap between casing as this is the trick...reconnect plug, turn ign on, switch diff lock off and hey presto the gap has gone and acuator is flush, tighten 4 bolts up, replace sensor cover, job done.
Hope this helps you ppls out there... :thumbup:
 
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