Service pack or individual bits?

[Rosy]

Afternoon all, so after a year of tootling about its time to service the 80... and I've decided to give it a go myself, after all, what could go wrong!

In preparation I've been looking at parts from roughtrax when I came across this "Service pack" which include all the filters, correct weight oil and even some fancy brake cleaner I'm not sure what to do with!

http://www.roughtrax4x4.com/premier-service-pack-70-80-series.html

The kit comes in at £70 but, having spoken to the local Mr T, the price for the OE filters alone came in £90 and change!

So my question is, are these kits really value for money or am I better off going with OE and avoiding problems down the line?

Any advice is gratefully received.

Rosy

 

[fbnss]

I've used that the last few times although this time i'm gonna get a toyota oil filter as well after seeing cross sections of different filters chopped in half somewhere. I have a collection of fuel filters though as ive chickened out of changing that so far.

 

[fbnss]

I struggled like f*** to undo my oil filter until i got the right tool.

 

[AndycruiserguyLomas]

I'd always go with an OEM oil filter in an 80 but all the others can be any good other make, Fram, Crossland Unipart etc . Oil is very subjective, the most expensive or the cheapest will do as long as its changed at 4.5K. At the mo both my "Collies" are running on 10/40 long drain mineral oil we used in the older trucks which cost 50p/litre when I bought it and you know what?, neither have exploded yet.
I'd check the condition of the air filter, does it need changing? Greasing the prop joints is about the second most important job after the oil. Buy what you need.

 

[fbnss]

From roughtrax, i think if you add up the price of two lots of oil, an oil filter, air filter you're just about at the price of that kit anyway.

 

[Rosy]

thanks for the quick response guys!

so +2 for genuine oil filters.

I'd always go with an OEM oil filter in an 80 but all the others can be any good other make, Fram, Crossland Unipart etc . Oil is very subjective, the most expensive or the cheapest will do as long as its changed at 4.5K. At the mo both my "Collies" are running on 10/40 long drain mineral oil we used in the older trucks which cost 50p/litre when I bought it and you know what?, neither have exploded yet.
I'd check the condition of the air filter, does it need changing? Greasing the prop joints is about the second most important job after the oil. Buy what you need.

Thanks Andy, I hadn't even considered the greasing the prop shaft joints! I'll have to research the tools and procedure for that this evening. I'm sure the air filter will be fine, I have only done 5k since I had it serviced at OC after purchase.

I struggled like f*** to undo my oil filter until i got the right tool.

Thanks for the heads up Nick. After searching the forum yesterday I bough one of those 3 prong jobbies which should hopefully make it easier to remove. Is that the tool you have? Also, didn't spot that roughtrax do the OE filter so good spot there!

 

[fbnss]

yes i have a 3 prong jobby that the ratchet goes on. Bought it, didnt fit... couldnt get it undone so jammed a screwdriver through the filter and twisted, bugger bugger bugger, no joy. finally got it off. 2nd service got the 3 prong jobby out again, it fitted, i hadnt untightened it all the way...doh! ps. get some cardboard and put it on the floor. no matter how tidy you are there will be spilt oil.

 

[t1pper]

Hi,
OEM filters for me, I swap my oil & filter every 6K miles and use a Semi Synth cheapish oil from Euro Car Parts at about £1 litre, better to give an oil change more frequently than get too worked up about the "right oil".

I also change all fluids such as diff oil transfer box and air/fuel filters anually (about 20K miles for me) if you can do the service yourself the parts costs are fairly cheap IMO.

I grease the prop frequently on mine, do not have a set routine but say around every 4-5K miles, I would imagine if you did a fair amount of off road you may like to do that more often.

Yes get ready as they hold a suprising amount of engine oil and once you let the drain out you have got to be ready plenty of rag/cardboard is a good idea.

 

[frank rabbets]

You have to make sure grease comes out of all four corners/joints of each prop shaft spider. There is usually one tight one on each which remains therefore ungreased if not checked.

Also important to change front dif oil at least every 36k miles. It gets contaminated.

All other items should also be done on schedule but the above 2 cause most of the 80 lube problems.

 

[chapel gate]

If you leave the oil draining for about 40 mins the oil filter will empty itself, the oil will be slowly dripping then all of a sudden another gush arrives. I dont spill a drop when i remove the filter.

i only lightly hand tighten the filter and then it can be undone by hand, always oil the O ring to stop it binding.

ive always used a blue point filter, are the oem that much better?

 

[GeekOKent]

I struggled like f*** to undo my oil filter until i got the right tool.

Same here. It's a pain to get off. I have only ever used genuine fulters.

 

[Towpack]

Many oil filters have drain back valves and I think the OEM Toyota one does too which means the filter will not empty completely even though it sits 'upside down' on the block. I've only ever fitted a non OEM filter once when I decided on an oil change on a Sunday and couldn't get to a Toyota dealer. Can't remember the brand but there was a noticeable 2-3 second lag before the oil pressure came up on cold starts which I assumed was down to the filter having drained overnight so I changed it again for OEM.
On the motorcycle front there was a case in MCN many years ago where the filter medium in a cheap pattern filter broke up with the inevitable and catastrophic consequences to the engine. I'm certainly not saying all pattern filters are inferior but, personally, I'd rather pay a little more for peace of mind. JMO

Edit...I use a strap-on filter wrench with 3/8 or 1/2" drive which makes removing even the tightest fitter a breeze.

 

[fbnss]

I had a little search earlier and found this
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/toyota-oil-filter-made-in-thailand-vs-the-competition.123608/
There's certainly a difference, not that i'd pop down to asda for an oil filter

 

[t1pper]

The price difference between oem oil filters and pattern part filters is prob £10 or putting it into prospective an 1/8 of a tank of fuel so why take the risk??

 

[fbnss]

I never thought twice about it until i saw a cross section somewhere, i was trying to find it but failed.

 

[t1pper]

The price difference between oem oil filters and pattern part filters is prob £10 or putting it into prospective an 1/8 of a tank of fuel so why take the risk??

 

[AndycruiserguyLomas]

Many oil filters have drain back valves and I think the OEM Toyota one does too which means the filter will not empty completely even though it sits 'upside down' on the block. I've only ever fitted a non OEM filter once when I decided on an oil change on a Sunday and couldn't get to a Toyota dealer. Can't remember the brand but there was a noticeable 2-3 second lag before the oil pressure came up on cold starts which I assumed was down to the filter having drained overnight so I changed it again for OEM.
On the motorcycle front there was a case in MCN many years ago where the filter medium in a cheap pattern filter broke up with the inevitable and catastrophic consequences to the engine. I'm certainly not saying all pattern filters are inferior but, personally, I'd rather pay a little more for peace of mind. JMO

Edit...I use a strap-on filter wrench with 3/8 or 1/2" drive which makes removing even the tightest fitter a breeze.

Same thing, just used a blueprint one once on the silver/grey one I had, also noticed the oil pressure down a fraction at all temps. Greased the props every oil change, greased the swivels too. Also oiled every hinge and handle and at 150K when I sold it every door shut like the day it left the factory.
Plus 1 on the strap on filter remover, never fails to satisfy ( removal of the filter that is).

 

[chapel gate]

Interesting video fb, cheers. Wheres the cheepest place to get oem filters? Do you all change them every oil change?

 

[t1pper]

I change my filter every service and get them from my local dealer approx £13+vat and they deliver to my work FOC.
Ebay has genuine ones for about £16 delivered

 

[Gary820]

I use genuine for all my service parts apart from oil.
I got the coolant from Toyota cheap too, 20 litres was £24. I bought that as I changed it on the last service and intend on flushing it again at some point.