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Who is doing what maintenance today?

Changed all of the suspension bushes for super pro ones, thank god ive got a press!! now for a rest & watch the snooker
 
Finished doing all the prep bits on the LC, i have also replaced the brake fluid so now im ready for the drive to Italy.:icon-biggrin:
 
Made up the bed in the maggiolina RTT. Packed some more stuff inside. Nearly ready for laning later on this week
 
Got a chance to takle a couple of jobs on my truck Saturday. Changed the pinion seal on the front diff and changed the oil in it, bought the seal from toyota not too bad price. So far leak has gone.
Also changed the big end bearings as i have been driving around with these for a while since Karl posted them to me. Cheers Karl.
In the pictures the bearings are from no1 on the left to no6 on the right. New Forest-20130504-00036.jpg
The truck has done 311000 miles and they look to be original no4s. I put acl standards back in.
New Forest-20130504-00040.jpg Top line are from the top. Nearly all have signs of wear especially no 2.
I definatley feel this was worthwile looking at what came out.New Forest-20130504-00040.jpg
Mind you i cant tell if they have made any noticalbe difference in the running of the engine, refilled with new oil and filters from Toyotas( Oil price was better than i can get anywhere else) so i have put that in. It cant be that bad if they use it right.
Oil pressure is better but could be the new oil as she was due a change as the truck had done 10000 since last change.

If the photos are not very good i will get some with the camera instead of using the phone.
Cheers, Mark
 
Mot this morning..........another pass with no advisories, good old 80!!!!!!
 
Disabled the EGR, and noticed a bit more get up and go in 1st, sprayed another alloy (3 more to go)
 
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Mot'd the 80 today and failed it! Yep failed my own motor lol.
Got a broken front coil spring, got the pedders stuff to fit but that was planned in a few weeks.
Just started to rent a little workshop rather then making a mess at work or at home (get moaned at about both) so next weekend it'll be in there and work I've got planned will go ahead. Need to finish painting underside and few cosmetics then the rest.
 
Gave the old girl a full service and going over the other day. Nothing new to report other than the rise in oil pressure.
 
Well done mate, but did you do any work on your 80? :whistle:

C
 
Replaced rear prop milners toyo UJ with a toyota one. And fitted new oil seals on transfer box rear output/companion flange. Sorted out squeaking exhaust on idle. Fitted new rear storagr drawer handles and a rear door fold down table. Then had beer and BBQ
 
Eventually finished painting the chassis :) feels like it's taken ages with all the prep etc. Just need to do around where the springs sit on the axles and chassis when remove the old stuff.
 
swapped out milner HDK CV joint for a brand new Toyota one - only took me 90minutes

the HDK one only been on 10months and no problems - but wanted a toyota part there instead!
 
Fitted four new window rubbers (thanks Jon !!! ) and greased up the runners and winders. :icon-biggrin:
The difference between new rubbers and greased mechanisms between the old and ungreased was around 6 to seconds up and down.
But couldn't extract the mechs from the front doors so just greased them as best as possible.
New rubbers didn't really seem to make much of a difference, the greasing did though.

Then noticed the cherry aid under the cruiser, power steering fluids leaking :doh:
 
Took the truck to a rolling road day, broke both the alternator belts on the second power run, but got my baseline - 124.8HP - drove home on battery power alone (good ole diesel not needing lots of electrickery to keep it going) and replaced both belts once I was home

Now I can see what effect I can have with some diesel tuning!
 
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I did my window rubbers/motors/switches over the weekend as well. Not as big of an improvement as I was hoping for ... but all now working. The drivers side motor was completely rusted and seized. But managed to get it a apart (the shaft was rusted into collar bearing in the bottom of the case), cleaned and back to working condition.

Given they are still a little slow on the way up I'm guessing it's just because the motors are little tired?
 
If you can, it's a good idea to strip a motor to it's bare bones and clean the commutator, brushes and holders and re-lube the bearings. Then check the voltage in under load.

Roger
 
Good point ... I didn't clean the brushes. Not sure which part the commutator or holders are but did give everything a good clean with WD40 then sprayed loads of white grease in. Given how rusty most of the motors were they will probably need another clean out once the grease has worked it's way round and loosened more gunk up.

If there is voltage drop under load ... what would that suggest?
 
The commutator and brushes are at the end where the wires go in and opposite to the end where the power comes out. WD 40 is a water displacement fluid and a poor lubricant. It's also highly inflammable. If the grease gets to the brushes, the motor will stop. It's best to strip it and de-grease everything. Then put in warm place to completely dry out. Soak the bearings in oil for a few hours prior to re-assembly. They are porous bronze and will soak up the oil. Voltage drop indicates bad connections i.e. corroded, dirty or loose.

Roger
 
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