80 series transfer oil seals

[Chris]

Guys, I need to replace the TCase rear output seal and the rear diff input seal. A simple enough job, but can anyone tell me what degree of success you've had in retaining the dust deflectors when doing this? The FSM isn't particularly help, probably because it's a pretty basic job, but aside from the new seals, I could do without buying the stupidly priced deflectors. Do they just come away with the companion flange and output shaft?

Dunno why they have both started weeping, but I shall check the slip yoke for over packing whilst the prop is off anyway.

Chris

 

[adrianr]

Cant answer your question chris about the dust deflectors but if its not the slip yoke perhaps the change in angles due to the suspension lift, if the seals were weak could that cause them to weap?

 

[Chris]

Yes, that and the off road playing recently Adrian. It's not actually much of a lift though. I'm guessing that they are just old and tired. Like me.
Don't think there's anything odd going on.

Chris

 

[Rob]

You should be able to keep the dust deflectors in place, that is if you avoid hitting them directly with a soft hammer.

 

[Chris]

.... or my fingers

Thanks Rob.

Chris

 

[Dave Docwra]

Hi Chris, Are the breathers clean?

 

[Andrew Prince]

The dust deflectors shouldn't be in the line of fire when doing the T/case output seal. The shaft/flange just slides out once all the internals (circlips, speedo sensor, viscous coupling etc) have been removed. It takes a few gentle smacks with a rubber mallet to get the shaft free as it's a friction fit. Just leave the deflectors in place.

The biggest hassle, as has been mentioned before, is getting the pesky circlips out - LONG c-clip pliers are a big advantage.

In terms of what's caused the leak, a search indicated that the bearing starting to go could be the cause. So I changed the bearing while I was in there as t/case extension removal is a finicky job. I think Rob elected not to change the bearing and the it failed at a later point?

Now that Adrian mentions the lift, I wonder whether he hasn't hit the nail on the head? I can't remember whether I put my lift on before or after the seal went but it could well have been before And my rear input seal is now starting to weep Maybe take some pics as you go on the rear diff, Chris

Cheers,

 

[Chris]

Cheers Andrew. Frankly I do think it's just a symptom of old age. It's a 17 year old oil seal. I don't see that as being sinister really.

But I need to go back to the FSM exploded diagrams. Circlips? It just seems to show removal of the castellated nut, slide out the short shaft, prise out the oil seal and replace.

I must be missing something. I have a spare transfer case all built up so if I have any issues, I'll just swap the whole thing.

Chris

 

[Chris]

Dave, I posted a reply earlier but it seems not to have come up - yes the breathers are clean. It's a standard check for me that one.

It's not gushing out, but with a new drive on the way, I daren't incur the wrath of you know who by dripping all over it.

The truck has been standing for 8 years. These seals would normally get flexed and oiled with use. Static for that length of time, I'm surprised they didn't just fall out.


Chris

 

[Andrew Prince]

But I need to go back to the FSM exploded diagrams. Circlips? It just seems to show removal of the castellated nut, slide out the short shaft, prise out the oil seal and replace.

I just want to check we're talking about the same thing re the rear output shaft of the t/case? I.e. the bit that the rear propshaft bolts onto (the other end to the rear diff for any smart alecs )?
Assuming that I've understood you correctly and that IS what you're talking about, you have to remove the rear section of the t/case housing - the shaft cannot be removed in situ.

EDIT: The best I could find was this - it does have some useful links in one of the posts.
IIRC Rob had a decent write-up with some pics - I can't find it though...

Cheers,

 

[Chris]

Damn and blast. Andrew, yes that is eggzackerly the job, I am talking about. What a PITA as Rob pointed out. All that just to get to a seal that is half an inch away from you! Mr T, nil points!

Odd that Rob had the same rear diff seal leak at the same time. Of course, I could cheat and undo the transfer case extension and just bolt on a whole spare one.

That one isn't leaking.

Grrr.

Oh well, I'd better get some snapper pliers I think. Maybe I won't do it this weekend after all. Cheers for the direction Andrew and ta Rob for going there before me.

 

[Andrew Prince]

Odd that Rob had the same rear diff seal leak at the same time. Of course, I could cheat and undo the transfer case extension and just bolt on a whole spare one.

Sorry to be the bearer of bad news but at least you're forewarned! The biggest pain is getting the circlips out - and keep tabs on which bolt goes where as there are 3 or 4 different lengths amongst the 11 or so bolts holding it on.
There is also a funny washer thingy that fits between the oil pump and the t/case itself that has no way of locating so it falls off whiel you're trying to delicately manoeuvre the housing back on with RTV smeared everywhere - I used a blob of lithium grease to hold it in place and it worked a treat.

Oh well, I'd better get some snapper pliers I think. Maybe I won't do it this weekend after all. Cheers for the direction Andrew and ta Rob for going there before me.

On the pliers, you need LONG pliers with paddle shaped tips NOT the ones with tips like a ballpoint pen. There was a post somewhere a while back with suitable ones to buy...

EDIT:These ones on Ebay look like the daddy http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Armstrong-Loc...t=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item2a0fe59405 Expensive but they will turn a job that can take many many hours and result in destroyed snaprings and gnashed teeth into a 5 minute cakewalk
I think there is a cheaper, slightly smaller Armstrong model that will probably do the job too.

 

[Chris]

Thanks Andrew - already clued into the difference between circlip pliers and snap ring pliers. I actually need a new set of each. I keep putting it off thinking, well, I'm hardly likely to have to do that again Might just click that linky and get it over with.

I use the grease blob method too. Works in lots of ways including holding nuts in spanners.

Honestly though, I might just swap the unit out for now then strip on the bench at leisure. Isn't it great having half a spare car.

Chris

 

[BRE Fabrications LTD]

Not trying to be a copy cat or anything but I am prepping up to do this job too, both of my T-case seals are leaking...

Glad this thread came up though cause I was only going to change the seals. Sounds like I have quite an adventure ahead of me...

Is the front T-case seal as much fun as the rear

Both my Diffs are leaking through the pinion seal too...

I suppose on the plus side I'll get a chance to try and get the front locker working and sort the breathers...

Fun times...

 

[Chris]

Ahh in that case my friend..

after you....

Chris

 

[Andrew Prince]

Done some more eBaying - these are cheaper and marginally smaller than the previous ones I posted but they have a bigger gape, so might be a better compromise all round...

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Armstrong-Loc...t=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item2c4df3fe31

 

[Rob]

I have the smaller ones that seem to open wider according to the description, and yes I have measured mine. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Armstrong-Lock-Ri ... 77#vi-desc

1.5" is still not wide enough but if you go any larger you will have difficulty getting into the circlip holding the viscous coupling in place.

Yes I did change it again and so far it has stopped the leak. But even more oddly both my diff pinions have stopped leaking, and the oil level is correct.

You beat me to it Andrew...

 

[BRE Fabrications LTD]

How hard would it be to remove the T-case as a complete unit?
Seems this job will be a bit easier in my shed than on my driveway.
My neighbours already look at me funny as it it...

 

[Chris]

Thanks lads. I'll probably go for those then. Once I have swapped it out for a good one

Appreciate the help

Chris

 

[BRE Fabrications LTD]

Thanks lads. I'll probably go for those then. Once I have swapped it out for a good one
Chris