I'm looking for a LC to turn over a period of time into a overland truck, it seem's that 80's are getting quite rare and expensive with very high mileage
I thought about a 90 so my question is what do I need to look out for on this model not got a clue tbh. been a Defender owner for years lol
Thanks David
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Hi David,
The 80 series welcome to the forum.
The 80 series is a bit more “old school”, a bit more agricultural, look at it like a tractor, go almost any where, great in it’s right environment. Generally poor fuel consumption, because of their bulk, compared to the slightly smaller, and newer 90 – 95 series.
In today’s world, of lessening hard core, serious off road trails, (Got to blame the Chinese for that road building program) there isn’t an outright need for a Land Cruiser with 3 diff locks.
But, you need to ask yourself, do you plan on mostly tarmac and gravel trails, or are you looking to drive the Congo in the monsoon season, before the Chinese have got there with their tarmac, and 4 lane high way.
The 90 series, is collectively known as both the 90 which is 3 door SWB, and the 95 series 5 door LWB. Generally in conversation most owners of 3 doors and 5 doors will say “I have a 90 series”
The 95 series (5 door LWB) to give it its correct identification, is generally more than big enough. The third row of seats is removed in seconds, and it is quite common for the largest of the 60/40 split seats to be removed.
First task is to choose a model - the 90 is the short wheel base, the 95 is the long wheel base which is a better option as an over Lander.
More importantly, choose either a UK spec or a Japanese spec, the UK was called the Colorado and has a locking rear diff, the Japanese version is the Prado which has a limited slip diff. Both drive trains need checking for correct operation.
Diesel or petrol? Diesel probably better, but economy may not be that different. Avoid lpg if over landing is the aim.
Manual or auto? Auto is very relaxed driving, but may need a new radiator ~~as they can do have a weak habit allowing the transmission oil (which also runs through a pipe work, within the bottom of the radiator to corrode, and lose the seal, and allow mixing of the auto box oil, and the engine coolant water~~
The 95s are holding their value well at the moment, so choose carefully.
I have used my Prado for a few sub-1000 mile journeys and I love it.
Cheers
Pete
As Peter mentions, the 95 is a better vehicle space wise.
Suggesting diesel is a good idea.
Suggesting a European model is probably a better option.
If electing for the auto, which is very good, then the first thing I would do is replace the radiator, may be also replace the water pump at the same time.
If you’re unsure about the timing belt, well now is a good time to put your mind at rest.
I think the belt costs some thing like £25.00
It depends on how much you are going to do in terms of base lining it before you start with the modifications. I spent a bit more than I could have, but wanted a good service history. However, after all the work that I have put into it I may as well have bought a cheaper truck (they tend to be quite reliable).
It is worth checking the chassis for serious rust - around the rear top shock mounts appear to be affected occasionally (rarely though). Also check if the cooling system has had any work done on it - the rads fail and contaminate the ATF with coolant which can damage the autobox.
Pretty much anything else can be sorted as part of your overland prep and getting to know your truck.
This word “base lining” keeps cropping up, a good inspection of any previous modifications would be high on the list.
Just don’t go overboard on this.
Chassis wise for rust, you would be unlucky to get a bad one, but there are ones that have lived on the beach, pulling boats in and out of the sea.
Generally, road going land Cruisers are very rust resistant.
I have to say even though these heads are prone to cracking... it's only when really pushed and if the cooling system isn't in top condition, although there are the off's (myself) where the head went out of no where at 70k miles... I've heard of some Colorado's with 300k miles+ with pretty much the original head.
On the plus side, when my head went I still managed to use it for a good year or so before fixing it. So, its not like they are impossible to drive like some other cars I know of.
As Chris has said, you will be much better paying a little more and getting the D4D engine, more power, better economy, and reliability, although I've heard of the injector story on those engines as well.
I would again suggest the cooling system should be prioritised. A new radiator is available from several different factors, several on here will be able to point you to the “good, the bad, and the ugly”
The newer D4-d (1KD-FTV) engines are again more fuel efficient, more powerful. There is a range of engine serial numbers that are prone to leaking injector seals, however the free Toyota recall, has all but sorted that, unless your previous owner was not taking the Land Cruiser to the Toyota garage, I believe the recall work was done as each Land Cruiser came in for service, however I am sure the engine serial number range, did not include the Colorado's with the D4-d engines.
The recall as far as I know, the engine serial number range was some thing like years 2004 until 2008. This is only the next model range up from the 90/95 Colorado, this is the 120 series that was affected.
There is the exact information on the forum, from which engine serial number to which engine serial number was affected.
It appears that the cooling issues found in the 90/95 Colorado's are not afflicting the 120 series.
Oh, and to keep the record strait, the 3 door SWB is the 120 series, and the 5 door LWB is the 125 series, but as per my mention earlier, they are all collectively known as the 120 series.
Gra.
and the electrics on a D4-d engined land Cruiser, be it the 90/95 or the 120 series.
