Cracked from axle housing.

[Rob-o]

Evening all,

Got home from work tonight and could smell EP90 on the drive, never a good sign... Had a poke around the puddle that was forming to find my drivers side radius arm bracket has snapped and pulled the axle tube apart in the process, exactly like this:

http://forum.expeditionportal.com/threads/62877-80-Series-Broken-front-diff-housing

Anyone on here had this happen? I honestly can't think where or when or how this has happened!

Rob

 

[AndycruiserguyLomas]

If its any help I'm breaking an 80 with a very good front axle case and can charge you same as I charged Josh for one £125.

Someone is having the suspension off at the weekend so its virtually off.

 

[Rob-o]

If its any help I'm breaking an 80 with a very good front axle case and can charge you same as I charged Josh for one £125.

Someone is having the suspension off at the weekend so its virtually off.

Ok, may come in useful, thanks. Where are you? The cruiser is my only form of transport so picking things up just became an issue!

Also is the axle currently complete? It would suit my time budget to be able to roll another axle under there at the moment.

Rob

 

[Chris]

The only issues I have heard of surrounding radius arms stems from using castor correction bushes. You could fix it, but I'd say replacement from Andy with the opportunity to have it all cleaned up and painted nice would be too good to pass up

 

[AndycruiserguyLomas]

You have a PM Rob.

 

[karl webster]

You have another pm rob.

 

[clivehorridge]

When, how and why this has happened will always be a mystery. Just don't forget that most 80s are now over 20 years old, and although many never see offroad, others such as the one in the photo on the link, have a hard life, with lots of axle twisting.

The steel is thick and looks in good condition (not rusting excessively) but it carries a lot of stress, and mods such as caster correction bushes may be just enough to take those stresses over the threshold.

I changed my front casing 2 years ago, as the original was bent at the neck to the cannonball. The replacement looked good and there's no signs of cracking, but who really knows. I've done away with correction bushes, back to OEM rubber, using dropper brackets at the chassis end of the trailing arm. The drive is so much more positive too, as well as better articulation.

I think the key is to inspect the truck more closely and more regularly underneath. I've noticed recently, more photos than usual of chassis cracks at the steering box, and the panhard mount.

Also, some depressing sights of extreme rust that's eaten away very thick structural steel right down to a cobweb.

None of us are getting any younger, and our beloved 80s are no exception.

 

[Josh Tagg]

Hi Rob, you're not alone with this issue. When I bought mine the ns bracket had been welded up and I took my axle out the other day and there was sod all left of the other side. A mate of mine at work, one of his friends runs adventure Overland and his also snapped off his 80 in the middle of Spain! I think west coast do a strengthening kit for them. Dread to think how much though! All the best with it
Josh

 

[SeaJay]

I went back to OME rubber to avoid this as well, nolathane offset caster bushes just don't absorb the shock as well as rubber with a central hole

 

[Roger]

Hello Rob-O,

I have done this - but I know how and when - it was during a sharp (read uncontrolled) steep decent into a big rut - I managed to twist the sector shaft of the steering box and rip off the axle mountings - I didnt know about the axle case mount until driving home, when it felt like I was driving with no panhard rod on!

I ended up taking the axle off and repairing it with new metal and bracing.


This was the damage

Axle off and cleaned up - extent of damage is clear




Out came the Welder


This was the finished work - painted nice and shiny! Not the straps over the top and in the pictures above I fully welded the bracket rather than the "stich" welds that come from new.

I also used an epoxy two pack resin paint on the swivel housings (not rubbed down in the pic) - it worked a treat and working well a good few years after.

 

[Rob-o]

Hello Rob-O,

I have done this - but I know how and when - it was during a sharp (read uncontrolled) steep decent into a big rut - I managed to twist the sector shaft of the steering box and rip off the axle mountings - I didnt know about the axle case mount until driving home, when it felt like I was driving with no panhard rod on!

I ended up taking the axle off and repairing it with new metal and bracing.

View attachment 127215
This was the damage
View attachment 127213
Axle off and cleaned up - extent of damage is clear

View attachment 127216
View attachment 127217

Out came the Welder

View attachment 127214
This was the finished work - painted nice and shiny! Not the straps over the top and in the pictures above I fully welded the bracket rather than the "stich" welds that come from new.

I also used an epoxy two pack resin paint on the swivel housings (not rubbed down in the pic) - it worked a treat and working well a good few years after.

Really useful pictures thanks! I'm surprised how little weld there actually is, I'd have expected it to be welded all the way round.

I've started stripping mine down tonight, with the axle in place still, for the time being. Mine has done exactly the same as yours, I must admit I'm considering gluing it back together in situ, whilst I collect parts to fix it properly (casing, gaskets, seals, a less clicky CV, etc)

Rob.

 

[Rob-o]

Well I got carried away this evening! Thought it couldn't get more broken, so I'd try a fix. Managed to clean everything up pretty well, glued up the cracks in the casing, then refit the radius arm mount. Welded inside and out. We shall see! Looked as if the cracks had been there a good while, so it's probably stronger than its been for a bit!

I haven't had the arc welder out for ages, so this was all a bit of an experiment!

Rob

 

[karl webster]

At least it gets you mobile again.
It will be as good as new

 

[Rob-o]

At least it gets you mobile again.
It will be as good as new

I'm not sure about that!! But as you say, I'm mobile. Both swivels are weeping, and I need to change a cv in the near future, so I'm planning to replace the casing when I rebuild everything. Unfortunately funds just don't allow at the minute!

 

[karl webster]

I keep genuine seals on the shelf if and when mate.

If they are weeping make sure you drop the diff oil and get some fresh in there. Usually the diff oil takes the grease back in and it doesn't do the diff any good.,

 

[chapel gate]

skf ezi sleeves work a treat on the half shafts if they are badly grooved.

 

[Josh Tagg]

It looks like the weld on top of the bracket just isn't big enough? I thought it would have been as wide as the bracket. Must be the weak point

 

[Rob-o]

It looks like the weld on top of the bracket just isn't big enough? I thought it would have been as wide as the bracket. Must be the weak point

That's exactly what I thought, everything looks a little flimsy down there, compared to the rest of the vehicle.

That said, I don't think this ones had the easiest 240k miles, and it's only just gone, so probably stronger than it looks!

 

[Dave2000]

Never seen this happen but heard of it happening a lot in the stateside forums, they love a lift kit and big wheels so @clivehorridge may have a point?

IIRC there is a 'girdle' style brace available that can be welded on? If I went this route I would need to get one of the tractor repair welders to fit it, I sold my welder years back as my welding is rubbish, I've seen neater chicken shit thrown on the floor!

regards

Dave