Yeah thanks Andy.
Update time.......................
Sunday morning I got back out for another early start on LJ.
And it was going to be another beautiful day.
First job was to finish the switch panel that I'd cut out wrong the day before.
I cut some more out with the jigsaw and then cleaned up the cut edges using a file.
This time it worked out perfectly!
I needed to trim a bit more out of the plastic surround to make room for the extra switches.
I then sanded the alluminium using some 1200 grit wet n dry to remove any surface scratches and marks.
I have ordered some carling switch covers with the appropriate writing and symbol on for some of the new electrical bits that are being fitted.
I then started pulling out every single piece of aftermarket wiring on LJ. Over the years different things had been wired in and it was just a mess + there was some 240v cable and some very dodgy connectors in places.
This weekend LJ is going to the auto electricians and he will rewire her!
I had by this point moved LJ out into the sun.
Theres a load of original wires on the oil filter side of the engine for the auto electrician to tidy up.
And some connectors on the drivers side which should connect to the oil level sender and oil pressure sender. These have never been connected since the engine conversion as I was never sure where they were meant to go and when I tried I melted the oil pressure gauge on the clocks by obviously connecting it wrong.
I removed the connector off the sender in the sump so he can solder on his new wires.
I fitted a new UHF aerial as the last one got broken by the garage door a few months ago.
Next I needed to fit the EGT probe/sensor.
This is the bung that would need welding into the exhaust.
X marks the spot.
Removed and on the bench.
I actually decided it would be better closer to the exhaust manifold as I should get a more accurate reading, so I ground the surface back to reveal clean shiny metal.
Step drills work awesome on thin materials like this as unlike a normal drill bit they dont grab and distort the metal around the hole, there also super quick!
I used some pieces of wood and bits of metal to support the bung in the correct position.
For a job like this there really is only one choice for me and thats TIG every time! Anything that needs to be pressure tight/air tight/liquid tight then TIG is the best type of welding as it ensures 100% fusion as your actually melting the metal together.
My boss very kindly said I could borrow the little TIG from work.
I cleaned up the flange with a wire wheel in the grinder.
Painted my bung and weld.
I cleaned the exhaust flanges on the sections on the car.
Applied plenty of RTV silicon.
And bolted it back on.
Needed to bolt the sensor in next.
And cable ties the wires in the engine bay ready for the auto electrician.
I secured the oil drain hose I recently added.
I removed the alluminium from the gauge pod and cleaned it with wet n dry.
Roof rack next.
Bolted the awning on.
Fitted it onto LJ.
Turned LJ round so I could get some better pics without the setting sun creating too much glare.
I'm very pleased with the awning!
It will be provide perfect cover from the scorching desert sun or rain for cooking!
Packed it all away and refitted the mudflaps.
OK so that was Sunday.
Next we have Monday after work.
I wanted to measure up for the new rear shocks that I needed to order. As I'm rapidly running out of time and now have just over a week until we hit the road I made the decision to just replace the existing shocks with ones with the same confirgurartion.
At a later date when I convert the rear to 4 link I will change to eye mounts top and bottom and get rid of the current bottom pin mounts.
First job was to disconnect the old ones.
The pins are very badly worn.
The drivers side axle mount was very badly worn out, despite being repaired a year or 2 ago with some thick washers welded on.
The other side was also pretty bad.
I could then lift wheels to obtain maximum articulation and measure what length shocks I needed.
I found a brake hose was under a lot of pressure and was restricting flex.
So I unbolted it, I will make and add a drop bracket and at some point get a longer hose made instead.
I can currently lift a front wheel 2ft off the ground before a rear one starts lifting.
And an inch more lifting the rear wheels.
I definitely need to source/make longer panhard rods as the tyres are catching on full articulation.
Shocks measured.
A phone call to Chris at FNB 4wd in South Australia and I have a pair of EFS shocks on there way to me, great service as always from Chris.
LJ went to have a wheel alinement done today and amazingly it was spot on and didnt need adjusting which is an absoloute fluke as I didnt measure that accurately when fitting the new tie rod ends.
I'm actually tempted to take it some where else and get it checked again, even though the place we took it is a place my boss has been using for many years.
Drawer system next.
I picked up some stainless steel catches/locks today. I could have probably bought them cheaper online as they were expensive, but I'm running out of time so just bought them.
I put masking tape on the checkered plate and marked what needed cutting out.
Cut it out with a jigsaw.
I need to buy some stainless steel bolts to bolt them on with.
I needed to cut a section out of the drawer box for the latch to work.
I couldnt decide whether to have 1 or 2 on the biggr drawer, but in the end went for 2.
Drilled the corners.
Then cut them out with the jigsaw.
So LJ is getting there but still lots to do.
I've got tomorrow night working on LJ at home, then Thursday evening 4pm-9pm I can use the workshop at work, then LJ is going to the auto electrician for the weekend, then when I get her back I can finally re-fit everything and get LJ loaded for the trip.
