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LJ78 Build Thread
- Thread starter Ben
- Start date
Paddler Ed
Well-Known Member
I'm expecting some updates soon Ben - you've had 3 long weekends in a row I reckon now, or did you end up working some of them?
- Joined
- Oct 13, 2010
- Messages
- 6,055
- Country Flag
Thanks guys. 
No I've been home, working on the 78!
I wanted to do a big update last week but the touch screen stopped working on my Iphone, so I cant get any of the pics off it.
New screen should have been here last week, hopefully it will be here tomorrow and fingers crossed when I bolt it on it fixes the issue.
But I've been getting heaps done on this project!
The engine is all in and fitted.
I've been cleaning and painting lots of parts and refitting them.
All of the front panels are sanded down, rust repaired and ready for paint.
I did my huge trip down to Sydney for the drivers side guard/wing, then brought it home and drilled holes all over it for the snorkel.
Pulled the windscreen out to repair the rotten section.
Sold my 37" tyres that I no longer use and bought a really nice Lincoln MIG welder.
Yesterday I cut out the rot at the bottom of the passenger side rear quarter and welded new steel in.
I've found a panel shop that I'm thinking of using for the respray, he wants $3500 to fully respray it.
I've spent $632 on all the stainless steel exhaust bits, going 3" mandrel bent for the whole system.
I've order the new crystal clear front light set from Malaysia.
I'm about to pay Amayama almost $1k for all the genuine bits I need.
I'm about to order a top mount intercooler and bonnet scoop.
Then once the car has been resprayed and is back together I need to order the roof rack, water tank, 33" BFG (for a spare, as I might use the tyres that are on it for now, to save some cash, but it only came with 4 so I need a spare).
Then I can start designing and fitting out the interior.
So lots of progress has been made, but theres still a long way to go.
No I've been home, working on the 78!
I wanted to do a big update last week but the touch screen stopped working on my Iphone, so I cant get any of the pics off it.
New screen should have been here last week, hopefully it will be here tomorrow and fingers crossed when I bolt it on it fixes the issue.
But I've been getting heaps done on this project!
The engine is all in and fitted.
I've been cleaning and painting lots of parts and refitting them.
All of the front panels are sanded down, rust repaired and ready for paint.
I did my huge trip down to Sydney for the drivers side guard/wing, then brought it home and drilled holes all over it for the snorkel.
Pulled the windscreen out to repair the rotten section.
Sold my 37" tyres that I no longer use and bought a really nice Lincoln MIG welder.
Yesterday I cut out the rot at the bottom of the passenger side rear quarter and welded new steel in.
I've found a panel shop that I'm thinking of using for the respray, he wants $3500 to fully respray it.
I've spent $632 on all the stainless steel exhaust bits, going 3" mandrel bent for the whole system.
I've order the new crystal clear front light set from Malaysia.
I'm about to pay Amayama almost $1k for all the genuine bits I need.
I'm about to order a top mount intercooler and bonnet scoop.
Then once the car has been resprayed and is back together I need to order the roof rack, water tank, 33" BFG (for a spare, as I might use the tyres that are on it for now, to save some cash, but it only came with 4 so I need a spare).
Then I can start designing and fitting out the interior.
So lots of progress has been made, but theres still a long way to go.
- Joined
- Oct 13, 2010
- Messages
- 6,055
- Country Flag
OK....................................
The good news is I managed to get the phone working enough to get all the pics off it for this update.
The bad news is I couldnt fully fix it, so its had to go in the bin and a new one has been ordered.
So.............................update time.
With these standard engine mounts.
Bolted to the engine, the original chassis mounts were 45-50mm too far forwards.
I cut some 80mm x 10mm flat on the cold cut saw.
And drilled some 10mm holes in it on the drill press.
As I want these engine adapter plates to be fully bolt on to avoid welding the chassis, they need to bolt to the original chassis mounts and then extend across to the engine mounts new position.
It looked like they would work OK.
A bit more drilling to make the other one.
And I had 2 plates.
Welded M10 bolts in a hole in each plate and gave them a coat of paint.
On the other side the bolt needed to finish flush to allow the engine mount to be bolted over it.
Bolted in position.
Power steering pump is close but its got enough clearance and I want to elongate my holes slightly and move the engine 3-4mm forwards anyway, from this position which will result in more clearance in this area.
Other side.
All thats left to do on them is elongate the holes slightly to move the engine mount forward sightly on the adapter plates and I'm going to make some other brackets that will pick up on the very rear engine mount bolt and go back to the chassis diagonally to reinforce it and make sure I'm not putting too much strain on the original chassis mounts.
I looked at the rust below the windscreen next.
Pulled the screen out.
And managed to break it in the process.
I could now see the extent of the rot.
It had that much sealant around it that they had blocked one of the drain holes below the screen.
I'm picking up the remains of that red LJ70 wreck that I pulled a load of parts off at the start of this thread, this weekend and I will cut out a section of that windscreen surround to weld into to replace the rotten metal.
I've been cleaning lots more parts up.
Gave them all a coat of the rust killer/primer and hung them up to dry.
I also cleaned up all the front end panels ready for paint.
The passenger side guard looked OK but it had a bit of surface rust where it bolts on.
After cleaning all the small spots of surface rust off, I cleaned the big areas up on top of the guard where surface rust spots were starting to come through.
I've been using this rust killer/convertor product lately.
It works well but its bloody strong stuff. I spilt some on the bench and by the next morning it had eaten all the mill scale away and left a nice oxide coating on the steel.
Removed all these bits from the radiator support panel.
And started getting the panel ready for the wire wheel in the grinder and rust killer.
I removed some of the bottom bump strips next off the doors, these will need the paint removing from them and re-fitting after the respray.
Found 2 scrapers worked best to cut through the adhesive at each end and pop all the trim clips off.
Started sanding the blue primer off.
Which revealed at some point, when it was still its original paint/colour someone painted a horrible green stripe around it.
I also sanded the front passenger guard down.
And a bit more on the door.
So the RJ70 sold.
And they came and collected it.
Then I shot down to Sydney the next day.
We left at 12pm and drove for 7 hours and camped at the side of the motorway. At 4am we were up and on the road and I then drove all the way through until 9pm that night when we finally arrived home.
The next day I could unload the car and inspect the new parts.
This is the Australian made second hand MIG I picked up.
Only a small one but thats all that is required for thin sheet work and I have my TIG for anything really thick.
Set my gazebo up in the garden to keep the sun off me and got to work cleaning up the rest of the panels.
Even treated myself to some new wire wheels for the grinder.
The passenger side inner guard required the rot to be repaired.
Rot is like cancer and the only way to cure it is to cut it all out.
Cut through the first layer of steel.
I decided to try and treat the second layer of steel below with the new rust killer, seen as I was using it on some other bits anyway.
These are the other bits that got a good coat.
The next morning it looked OK.
But I decided I just wasnt 100% confident that the rot would not continue to eat away at the metal.
So I cut it out.
And began patching it with new 2mm thick steel.
TIG'd it all together then smoothed the welds down.
Snorkel next!
I needed to drill all the mounting holes in the new, rare and valuable guard.
Found the instructions and template.
Template taped in position.
There are 4 tools that are essential for a neat, professional, snorkel installation and they are:
-An automatic center punch, so you dont risk damaging the guard which is very likely with a traditional center punch and hammer.
-Step drills which work amazingly well in thin sheet metal as they wont bite and twist the thin panel like a conventional drill bit and they are also much quicker so dont put any heat into the panel which can damage paint/warp the panel.
-The correct size hole saw for the snorkel being fitted. (You would be amazed at how many people bodge a snorkel installation by drilling a series of holes in a circle for the main snorkel hole and then try and join them up with tin snips.
)
-And finally a de-buring tool to run around the edge of the holes you've made to clean off any of the sharp metal, ready for a lick of paint to protect the bare metal edge from corrosion.
So I drilled my bolt holes which the bolts will go through to attach the snorkel to the guard.
Followed by my first big hole.
Followed by the second.
Then I cut out the metal between the 2 with a thin cutting disc in the grinder.
And the snorkel bolted on perfectly.
Next I needed to make a hole on the inside of the guard to connect it to the airbox.
When I fitted it originally, to LJ, it was a little bit rough where it came through the inside of the guard as I made one big hole with the hole saw but then had to make it bigger with a grinder.
*No pic of this new, nice neat hole sadly, as this is the point where the Iphone died.
I got some more parts painted in black enamel.
Anti roll bar/sway bar.
And a transmission guard, these came on early Australian spec LJ70's and RJ70's (not sure about other markets).
But all the later square headlight 70's only got a tiny flimsy little plate that offers little in the way of protection, where as these guards are really solid.
So both my square headlight 70's will be getting these guards.
I bolted those bits on and the next part to bolt on was the freshly painted steering shaft.
I turned my attention back to the body work next and in particular the rot in the rear quarter panels.
This side first.
Marked where I needed to cut.
Rotten metal removed.
Lots of rust to clean up.
Cleaned up with a wire wheel in the drill and grinder.
Followed by a coat of this stuff.
I took some measurements and marked out a piece of alluminiumised steel.
Then got it into my sheet metal bender to bend it to shape.
Bit more trimming and bending........................
And some tabs for spot welds.
And it was time to use my latest tool.
This is a joggler, sheet metal tool.
One side steps the edge of sheet metal so it fits nicely behind other panels and then the end turns around to become a punch for punching the metal for the spot welds.
Stepped the edges of my panel.
And now it sits beautifully flush when placed behind another sheet.
Clamped in position.
So I could mark the end.
Took a template of the arch on the other side of the car so I could mirror it perfectly on this side.
A bit more trimming and bending.
Made another, smaller section to close off the gap at the bottom of the rear quarter, where I had cut rot away, in my other metal bender.
Coated the face of the metal that I wont be able to get to once its all welded in place, with some high heat paint.
Spot welded the small panel in place.
Followed by the main panel.
Smoothed the welds down.
And gave it a thin coat of filler.
Next I looked at the small rust hole behind the drivers side tail light.
To cut the rot out I borrowed the Dremel from work as I knew I wouldnt be able to get in with a grinder.
And cut it out.
I'm not even going to bother trying to get in there with the welder. So I will paint it all to seal and protect the metal and then fiberglass over the hole.
I had given most of the underneath a really good clean, followed by rust treating, painting and a coat of stone chip.
But I hadnt done the very back of the car, from the rear axle back, as the fuel tank was in the way.
So fuel tank off.
To reveal the area to clean and treat.
While looking at this area its clear to see the storage box that hangs down and the fuel tank actually bolts on to......................
I've been wondering lately whether a fuel tank from a V8 VDJ76 wagon would fit my LJ78, as they have a 130 litre main tank as standard.
I suspect without the tool box hanging down, which I dont think the new 76's have, I reckon it would fit.
But for now the tool box is staying.
I pushed the vehicle back so I could give it a good clean underneath.
It came up pretty good.
I also gave the tank a clean.
And all the tank related parts.
I removed the 2 pieces of curved glass from the very back side windows.
And managed to push most of the dent out.
That area then got a small coat of filler and a sand down.
I needed a flange to bolt to the turbo for my new 3" exhaust system and happened to have a piece of 12mm thick plate in the metal box.
So I marked it up ready for cutting, using the gasket as a template.
Used the drill press and the hole saws, with plenty of oil to drill the 2 main holes.
And one smaller hole.
I then cut it all out with a thin cutting disc in the grinder and cleaned it all up with a grinding disc.
All of my stainless steel tube, flanges, mandrel bends and silencer have arrived now so I will be building the exhaust system very soon.
But first I need to finish cleaning, rust treating, painting and stone chipping the underside. Then the fuel tank can go back in.
I've also made a start removing all the glass, door/window rubbers, door handles etc. ready for the respray.
The panel shop said they might be able to fit me in at the end of the month.
Oh and my new clear lights have arrived from Malaysia!
And all the genuine bits I've ordered are on their way from Dubai and Japan via Amayama.
*Edit* @Crispin I cant delete the pics below for some reason, they keep re-appearing
The good news is I managed to get the phone working enough to get all the pics off it for this update.
The bad news is I couldnt fully fix it, so its had to go in the bin and a new one has been ordered.
So.............................update time.
With these standard engine mounts.
Bolted to the engine, the original chassis mounts were 45-50mm too far forwards.
I cut some 80mm x 10mm flat on the cold cut saw.
And drilled some 10mm holes in it on the drill press.
As I want these engine adapter plates to be fully bolt on to avoid welding the chassis, they need to bolt to the original chassis mounts and then extend across to the engine mounts new position.
It looked like they would work OK.
A bit more drilling to make the other one.
And I had 2 plates.
Welded M10 bolts in a hole in each plate and gave them a coat of paint.
On the other side the bolt needed to finish flush to allow the engine mount to be bolted over it.
Bolted in position.
Power steering pump is close but its got enough clearance and I want to elongate my holes slightly and move the engine 3-4mm forwards anyway, from this position which will result in more clearance in this area.
Other side.
All thats left to do on them is elongate the holes slightly to move the engine mount forward sightly on the adapter plates and I'm going to make some other brackets that will pick up on the very rear engine mount bolt and go back to the chassis diagonally to reinforce it and make sure I'm not putting too much strain on the original chassis mounts.
I looked at the rust below the windscreen next.
Pulled the screen out.
And managed to break it in the process.
I could now see the extent of the rot.
It had that much sealant around it that they had blocked one of the drain holes below the screen.
I'm picking up the remains of that red LJ70 wreck that I pulled a load of parts off at the start of this thread, this weekend and I will cut out a section of that windscreen surround to weld into to replace the rotten metal.
I've been cleaning lots more parts up.
Gave them all a coat of the rust killer/primer and hung them up to dry.
I also cleaned up all the front end panels ready for paint.
The passenger side guard looked OK but it had a bit of surface rust where it bolts on.
After cleaning all the small spots of surface rust off, I cleaned the big areas up on top of the guard where surface rust spots were starting to come through.
I've been using this rust killer/convertor product lately.
It works well but its bloody strong stuff. I spilt some on the bench and by the next morning it had eaten all the mill scale away and left a nice oxide coating on the steel.
Removed all these bits from the radiator support panel.
And started getting the panel ready for the wire wheel in the grinder and rust killer.
I removed some of the bottom bump strips next off the doors, these will need the paint removing from them and re-fitting after the respray.
Found 2 scrapers worked best to cut through the adhesive at each end and pop all the trim clips off.
Started sanding the blue primer off.
Which revealed at some point, when it was still its original paint/colour someone painted a horrible green stripe around it.
I also sanded the front passenger guard down.
And a bit more on the door.
So the RJ70 sold.
And they came and collected it.
Then I shot down to Sydney the next day.
We left at 12pm and drove for 7 hours and camped at the side of the motorway. At 4am we were up and on the road and I then drove all the way through until 9pm that night when we finally arrived home.
The next day I could unload the car and inspect the new parts.
This is the Australian made second hand MIG I picked up.
Only a small one but thats all that is required for thin sheet work and I have my TIG for anything really thick.
Set my gazebo up in the garden to keep the sun off me and got to work cleaning up the rest of the panels.
Even treated myself to some new wire wheels for the grinder.
The passenger side inner guard required the rot to be repaired.
Rot is like cancer and the only way to cure it is to cut it all out.
Cut through the first layer of steel.
I decided to try and treat the second layer of steel below with the new rust killer, seen as I was using it on some other bits anyway.
These are the other bits that got a good coat.
The next morning it looked OK.
But I decided I just wasnt 100% confident that the rot would not continue to eat away at the metal.
So I cut it out.
And began patching it with new 2mm thick steel.
TIG'd it all together then smoothed the welds down.
Snorkel next!
I needed to drill all the mounting holes in the new, rare and valuable guard.
Found the instructions and template.
Template taped in position.
There are 4 tools that are essential for a neat, professional, snorkel installation and they are:
-An automatic center punch, so you dont risk damaging the guard which is very likely with a traditional center punch and hammer.
-Step drills which work amazingly well in thin sheet metal as they wont bite and twist the thin panel like a conventional drill bit and they are also much quicker so dont put any heat into the panel which can damage paint/warp the panel.
-The correct size hole saw for the snorkel being fitted. (You would be amazed at how many people bodge a snorkel installation by drilling a series of holes in a circle for the main snorkel hole and then try and join them up with tin snips.
)-And finally a de-buring tool to run around the edge of the holes you've made to clean off any of the sharp metal, ready for a lick of paint to protect the bare metal edge from corrosion.
So I drilled my bolt holes which the bolts will go through to attach the snorkel to the guard.
Followed by my first big hole.
Followed by the second.
Then I cut out the metal between the 2 with a thin cutting disc in the grinder.
And the snorkel bolted on perfectly.
Next I needed to make a hole on the inside of the guard to connect it to the airbox.
When I fitted it originally, to LJ, it was a little bit rough where it came through the inside of the guard as I made one big hole with the hole saw but then had to make it bigger with a grinder.
*No pic of this new, nice neat hole sadly, as this is the point where the Iphone died.
I got some more parts painted in black enamel.
Anti roll bar/sway bar.
And a transmission guard, these came on early Australian spec LJ70's and RJ70's (not sure about other markets).
But all the later square headlight 70's only got a tiny flimsy little plate that offers little in the way of protection, where as these guards are really solid.
So both my square headlight 70's will be getting these guards.
I bolted those bits on and the next part to bolt on was the freshly painted steering shaft.
I turned my attention back to the body work next and in particular the rot in the rear quarter panels.
This side first.
Marked where I needed to cut.
Rotten metal removed.
Lots of rust to clean up.
Cleaned up with a wire wheel in the drill and grinder.
Followed by a coat of this stuff.
I took some measurements and marked out a piece of alluminiumised steel.
Then got it into my sheet metal bender to bend it to shape.
Bit more trimming and bending........................
And some tabs for spot welds.
And it was time to use my latest tool.
This is a joggler, sheet metal tool.
One side steps the edge of sheet metal so it fits nicely behind other panels and then the end turns around to become a punch for punching the metal for the spot welds.
Stepped the edges of my panel.
And now it sits beautifully flush when placed behind another sheet.
Clamped in position.
So I could mark the end.
Took a template of the arch on the other side of the car so I could mirror it perfectly on this side.
A bit more trimming and bending.
Made another, smaller section to close off the gap at the bottom of the rear quarter, where I had cut rot away, in my other metal bender.
Coated the face of the metal that I wont be able to get to once its all welded in place, with some high heat paint.
Spot welded the small panel in place.
Followed by the main panel.
Smoothed the welds down.
And gave it a thin coat of filler.
Next I looked at the small rust hole behind the drivers side tail light.
To cut the rot out I borrowed the Dremel from work as I knew I wouldnt be able to get in with a grinder.
And cut it out.
I'm not even going to bother trying to get in there with the welder. So I will paint it all to seal and protect the metal and then fiberglass over the hole.
I had given most of the underneath a really good clean, followed by rust treating, painting and a coat of stone chip.
But I hadnt done the very back of the car, from the rear axle back, as the fuel tank was in the way.
So fuel tank off.
To reveal the area to clean and treat.
While looking at this area its clear to see the storage box that hangs down and the fuel tank actually bolts on to......................
I've been wondering lately whether a fuel tank from a V8 VDJ76 wagon would fit my LJ78, as they have a 130 litre main tank as standard.
I suspect without the tool box hanging down, which I dont think the new 76's have, I reckon it would fit.
But for now the tool box is staying.
I pushed the vehicle back so I could give it a good clean underneath.
It came up pretty good.
I also gave the tank a clean.
And all the tank related parts.
I removed the 2 pieces of curved glass from the very back side windows.
And managed to push most of the dent out.
That area then got a small coat of filler and a sand down.
I needed a flange to bolt to the turbo for my new 3" exhaust system and happened to have a piece of 12mm thick plate in the metal box.
So I marked it up ready for cutting, using the gasket as a template.
Used the drill press and the hole saws, with plenty of oil to drill the 2 main holes.
And one smaller hole.
I then cut it all out with a thin cutting disc in the grinder and cleaned it all up with a grinding disc.
All of my stainless steel tube, flanges, mandrel bends and silencer have arrived now so I will be building the exhaust system very soon.
But first I need to finish cleaning, rust treating, painting and stone chipping the underside. Then the fuel tank can go back in.
I've also made a start removing all the glass, door/window rubbers, door handles etc. ready for the respray.
The panel shop said they might be able to fit me in at the end of the month.
Oh and my new clear lights have arrived from Malaysia!
And all the genuine bits I've ordered are on their way from Dubai and Japan via Amayama.
*Edit* @Crispin I cant delete the pics below for some reason, they keep re-appearing
Last edited:
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doyle61
Member
- Joined
- Dec 19, 2013
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- Country Flag
Nice progress there Ben. It's actually an update that's very helpful to me as I'm at similar stuff myself. I brought drawings into our machine shop yesterday of a flange making tool for one of the lads to make for me. I'm going to use this method for next few patches but def going to pay close attention to your work first.
- Joined
- Oct 13, 2010
- Messages
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- Country Flag
Thanks guys.
Flange is 12mm thick Beau, same as the original down pipe flange.
I would have liked to have used stainless but I couldnt find any and non of my local stainless fabrication places work with metal that thick so I couldnt buy an off cut.
From that point back every part of the exhaust system will be stainless.
Flange is 12mm thick Beau, same as the original down pipe flange.
I would have liked to have used stainless but I couldnt find any and non of my local stainless fabrication places work with metal that thick so I couldnt buy an off cut.
From that point back every part of the exhaust system will be stainless.
I reckon you'll be an old man before it needs attention Ben.
I can imagine it being unearthed complete with stainless exhaust in a hundred years or so from a patch of very rust laden soil and Time Team musing over what it originally belonged to.
I can imagine it being unearthed complete with stainless exhaust in a hundred years or so from a patch of very rust laden soil and Time Team musing over what it originally belonged to.
- Joined
- Oct 13, 2010
- Messages
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Thanks guys.
Rosas, I love your country and will be back next year for a holiday!
300 days of sunshine we average here on the Gold Coast!
Rosas, I love your country and will be back next year for a holiday!
300 days of sunshine we average here on the Gold Coast!
- Joined
- Oct 13, 2010
- Messages
- 6,055
- Country Flag
Little update..........
I picked up the remains of the LJ70 body last Saturday.
Sadly the side of the windscreen frame that I actually needed was the side that was a bit damaged and rusty.
But still it was better than the 78 one and I figured I could work around the dent in the new section of metal.
So I cut it out.
Trimmed the rotten section out of the 78.
Cleaned up the new piece and trimmed it to size.
Tack welded it in position.
Then fully welded it and smoothed the welds down ready for paint and filler.
And gave it a quick spray of paint to protect it until it goes to the paint shop.
The rust repair at the bottom of the rear quarter panel came up pretty good after I sanded the filler down.
As I wont be reinstalling the rot inducing rear bumper, these square holes are no longer required, so I set about welding them up.
Cut some squares of sheet to size on my guillotine.
And welded them in.
I also had a couple of holes to do the same to at the bottom of one of the rear door.
They were for little brackets for mounting the rear number plate to, only our number plates are much smaller than the Japanese ones these were designed to fit, so they are no longer required.
Welded more squares of metal in.
These are my new side lights, which sadly dont fit the standard front guards.
So I welded some steel into the old mounting holes and also added some to make the cut out smaller and square on the passenger side front guard.
On the drivers side I made one neat, new, square cut out below the snorkel as the standard side repeater hole is covered by the snorkel anyway.
Forgot to take some pics.
The 78 body is now almost ready for the paint shop and is booked in for the 29th of this month!
I've now removed all the glass, handles, locks, rubbers etc. from all the doors and have taken the rear 2 doors off completely.
I also vacuumed the carpet and removed it.
I'm thinking of applying a Dynamat style product over the entire floor pan before the carpet and seats go back in to keep some of the radiant heat out of the cab from the transmission and to cut down on road noise too.
The carpet was pretty filthy.
So I borrowed the Mrs's steam mop.
And a load of clean mop heads later and the carpet was looking a lot cleaner.
It could then go out into the sun to dry.
I've had yet more deliveries this week!
The crystal clear light set from Malaysia, via Ebay turned up ridiculously quickly!
It should make the front end look a lot more modern without all the old orange lights!
I picked up a glow plug timer which I think will be a nice solution to the preheat system now I'm no longer running an ECU. I'm thinking I can just use this to control a standard Toyota glow plug relay.
My first delivery for the build, from Amayama turned up this week, all the way from Dubai.
New front door rubber seals.
Some oil seals.
Replacement aeries, one for this build and one for my soft top 70.
Hi-lux triple jet windscreen washer jets.
Plastic clips for the front grill.
An oil pick up pipe so I can finally fit the live axle 1KZ sump I have instead of the rusty, smaller capacity, IFS one thats currently fitted.
Rubber gear stick boot.
Intake manifold gasket, as I'm sure thats where my oil leak is coming from.
And finally the most expensive part of the order, the rear lights!
I've got one more Amayama order that I'm waiting for them to send from Japan (3 week delay for the seals I need).
And I'm about to place one more order for a new windscreen seal and a few other little bits and piece I've spotted that I need.
I've got most of the 3" stainless steel exhaust bits I need.
This is the single silencer I intend on fitting.
Some mandrel bends, although now I've started mocking the system up I've realised I need a few more bends.
But if there is any bits left from this build, I will use them on the soft top 70.
The flanges.
And there is also 3 x 1 meter lengths of tube.
I'm working on the reinforcing brackets for the engine mounts tomorrow as I've got an RDO
Then I need to crack on with the exhaust.
I picked up the remains of the LJ70 body last Saturday.
Sadly the side of the windscreen frame that I actually needed was the side that was a bit damaged and rusty.
But still it was better than the 78 one and I figured I could work around the dent in the new section of metal.
So I cut it out.
Trimmed the rotten section out of the 78.
Cleaned up the new piece and trimmed it to size.
Tack welded it in position.
Then fully welded it and smoothed the welds down ready for paint and filler.
And gave it a quick spray of paint to protect it until it goes to the paint shop.
The rust repair at the bottom of the rear quarter panel came up pretty good after I sanded the filler down.
As I wont be reinstalling the rot inducing rear bumper, these square holes are no longer required, so I set about welding them up.
Cut some squares of sheet to size on my guillotine.
And welded them in.
I also had a couple of holes to do the same to at the bottom of one of the rear door.
They were for little brackets for mounting the rear number plate to, only our number plates are much smaller than the Japanese ones these were designed to fit, so they are no longer required.
Welded more squares of metal in.
These are my new side lights, which sadly dont fit the standard front guards.
So I welded some steel into the old mounting holes and also added some to make the cut out smaller and square on the passenger side front guard.
On the drivers side I made one neat, new, square cut out below the snorkel as the standard side repeater hole is covered by the snorkel anyway.
Forgot to take some pics.
The 78 body is now almost ready for the paint shop and is booked in for the 29th of this month!
I've now removed all the glass, handles, locks, rubbers etc. from all the doors and have taken the rear 2 doors off completely.
I also vacuumed the carpet and removed it.
I'm thinking of applying a Dynamat style product over the entire floor pan before the carpet and seats go back in to keep some of the radiant heat out of the cab from the transmission and to cut down on road noise too.
The carpet was pretty filthy.
So I borrowed the Mrs's steam mop.
And a load of clean mop heads later and the carpet was looking a lot cleaner.
It could then go out into the sun to dry.
I've had yet more deliveries this week!
The crystal clear light set from Malaysia, via Ebay turned up ridiculously quickly!
It should make the front end look a lot more modern without all the old orange lights!
I picked up a glow plug timer which I think will be a nice solution to the preheat system now I'm no longer running an ECU. I'm thinking I can just use this to control a standard Toyota glow plug relay.
My first delivery for the build, from Amayama turned up this week, all the way from Dubai.
New front door rubber seals.
Some oil seals.
Replacement aeries, one for this build and one for my soft top 70.
Hi-lux triple jet windscreen washer jets.
Plastic clips for the front grill.
An oil pick up pipe so I can finally fit the live axle 1KZ sump I have instead of the rusty, smaller capacity, IFS one thats currently fitted.
Rubber gear stick boot.
Intake manifold gasket, as I'm sure thats where my oil leak is coming from.
And finally the most expensive part of the order, the rear lights!
I've got one more Amayama order that I'm waiting for them to send from Japan (3 week delay for the seals I need).
And I'm about to place one more order for a new windscreen seal and a few other little bits and piece I've spotted that I need.
I've got most of the 3" stainless steel exhaust bits I need.
This is the single silencer I intend on fitting.
Some mandrel bends, although now I've started mocking the system up I've realised I need a few more bends.
But if there is any bits left from this build, I will use them on the soft top 70.
The flanges.
And there is also 3 x 1 meter lengths of tube.
I'm working on the reinforcing brackets for the engine mounts tomorrow as I've got an RDO
Then I need to crack on with the exhaust.
Last edited:
- Joined
- Oct 13, 2010
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- 6,055
- Country Flag
Yes we will be staying on the Algarve, thats what I've done the last few times.
But we try and get out and explore a bit. Went to Lisbon last time for a day trip, which we loved, so much history! So we must return to explore some more. I think we would like to stay a bit longer in Lisbon next time.
I also want to shoot across the border into Spain and then go and visit Gibraltar, somewhere I missed out on last time.
No LandCruiser sadly, but I'm always on the look out for LandCruisers when traveling in different countries!
Last time I was in Portugal I saw some nice KZJ73's/KZJ74's and a few 80 series.
But we try and get out and explore a bit. Went to Lisbon last time for a day trip, which we loved, so much history! So we must return to explore some more. I think we would like to stay a bit longer in Lisbon next time.
I also want to shoot across the border into Spain and then go and visit Gibraltar, somewhere I missed out on last time.
No LandCruiser sadly, but I'm always on the look out for LandCruisers when traveling in different countries!
Last time I was in Portugal I saw some nice KZJ73's/KZJ74's and a few 80 series.
Rosas
New Member
- Joined
- Nov 18, 2014
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- 9
- Country Flag
Yes we will be staying on the Algarve, thats what I've done the last few times.
But we try and get out and explore a bit. Went to Lisbon last time for a day trip, which we loved, so much history! So we must return to explore some more. I think we would like to stay a bit longer in Lisbon next time.
I also want to shoot across the border into Spain and then go and visit Gibraltar, somewhere I missed out on last time.
No LandCruiser sadly, but I'm always on the look out for LandCruisers when traveling in different countries!
Last time I was in Portugal I saw some nice KZJ73's/KZJ74's and a few 80 series.
Lisbon is beautiful.
If you have time, visit Porto, and eat "francesinha", its a local food.
Porto is good place for love hahahaha
This year I'm going to the Algarve in August with my KZJ70
- Joined
- Oct 13, 2010
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Sorry Rich, its an Aussie thing.
RDO= Rostered Day Off
I work a 40 hour week, get paid for a 38 hour week and every 4 weeks get an RDO, to take when I choose!
Personally I'd rather work 4x 10 hour days a week, not have RDO's and have a 3 day weekend every week, but I'm not allowed.
