Project 'red van' (says the 4 year old) build thread

Finiterex

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So I've acquired a new project... 'project red van' as George (he's 4) calls it.

Issues with the old 90 are too long to list but nothing some elbow grease and a welder can't fix. Aim is to create a cheap but reliable over lander for some exciting family holidays.

I've been reading this forum pretty much back to back nad it's full of great info... Right now my priority is the rear axle (casing rotted to death... Snapped top and bottom link mounts) so have been following the FAQ on tera down.. Question.. How do the half shafts/hubs come out. Have taken off caliper, bake line, disc, drum cover, rear 4 retaining nuts and disconnected handbrake cable at the pin/split pin but it seems as if only the back plate is moving and not the shaft / hub. Any advise on what I'm missing?

Anyway plan is to fix up all the rot, new rear axle casing, prob new diff lock actuator, new bushes everywhere, 72 degree stat with full cooling system service (prob new rad, remote tran cooler and TMIC), elec temp sensors, ironman 40mm kit, home made snorkel and diff breathers, 8inch rims with 285s, home made front and rear winch bumpers (plus taillight conversion), home made bash armour and sliders (might external cage it), general recovery gear/expo gear (prob awning as well) then go enjoy some of our glorious outdoors.

Any hints... Tips.. Thoughts etc gladly received.
 

AndycruiserguyLomas

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Welcome along to the forum Mr F.
Rear diff lockers are the same as 80 fronts and can usually be found S/H as they generally fare better than rears. 80 wheels go straight on and look right and are readily available and you can go to 275/285 of you have a lift.
The rear axle issues are becoming common these days and a new case is the best option.
IMG_0628.JPG


This is my old Collie with a 2" lift and 80 wheels with 275/70/16's on so you know what the "look" is.
 

AdventureWagon

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We have a new 2000 3.4L V6 Auto 90 to our name, at least new to us, with only 378,880km (235,400mi) on the clock :) Ours was originally the colour of your one, but the previous owner and his dad did a lot of stuff to ours over the years and respraying to a nice bright red was one of them - it is a decent job and looks really nice.

Since getting ours we have done the following:
- replaced lower control arms (bushings were worn out)
- replaced all the fluids
- replaced towbar (original tongue was rusted in place)
- added reversing camera (it already had a Pioneer AVH head unit capable of accepting one)
- repaired CB radio (mic cord was shot)
- added Redarc Tow Pro elite electric trailer brake controller
- replaced windscreen as it was badly chipped in drivers' direct view, and also we got a big star (1" or so) stone chip on the way to camping the last time :(

In all we have met our goal of having a 4x4 camping/long trip/trailer tow vehicle for under $10k. We have a very old 1983 Jayco Swan camper trailer and it was getting a bit too much for our car, especially after we got the trailer weighed and found we were at the limit of the car rather than 250kg below it as the rego for the trailer said.

We have had a few trips away so far in ours including camping on the Gold Coast, QLD (80km) and in Toowoomba, QLD (120km) and are soon going to Hastings Point, NSW (180km). If all goes we we might go for some longer trips in it next year. As for 4WDing in it we have not done a huge amount, Henry my 6yr old gets a bit scared at it at the moment but maybe we will wean him onto it.

Hope your one goes well :) I come from the UK so I can appreciate how the conditions rot away cars there - in the 80s and 90s my mum lost 2 Minis and a mkI Ford Fiesta due to rust.
 
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MarkW

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Lower ball joints on the front ;) Roughtrax ones are ok but Toyota a better option. Reinforce the rear upper links to the axle, I've snapped one somehow so got a length of steel welded on to beef it up a bit.

Don't go too mad on the additional metal work, they work best being light as an overlander imho
 
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Finiterex

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Many thanks for the replies, all very helpful info.

I agree on the keeping it light front... At the same time (having nearly rolled a few discos over the years) a little protection for the family would be good... Got to weight up how far I'd really go in the rough stuff with the kids and wife on board.

On and 80 wheels is a darned good idea! Are they all the same?

If anyone s got any insight on how the shafts/hubs come out of the rear axles I'd love to hear it!
 

AndycruiserguyLomas

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On and 80 wheels is a darned good idea! Are they all the same?
The wheels you want are the 95 onwards as they are compatible with your wheel nuts ( the spigot type )
If you go for a lift you may find, as I did the ride becomes really quite harsh, so choose your springs carefully. It was one of the reasons I let it go.
 

karl webster

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welcome.
There is two sorts of 80 rims. 12v type and the 24v. they look the same. the only difference is the studs. i have various rims and also have them powdercoated in whatever colour. Depends what you want to spend.

Also have new or used lockers in stock ;)

Good luck with the build.

You can do some pretty extream stuff with the trucks but still keep it fairly safe for the family.
Lincomb is a good club meet if you want get to meet some people and have some fun in the truck. Families welcome.
 

Finiterex

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What's the stud difference? What's the diameter, width and et? Sorry just interested to know... And price wise... Well depends what you're after...?

As for locker... Well prob gonna need one as everything on the rear axle is foobared by the looks of it.

welcome.
There is two sorts of 80 rims. 12v type and the 24v. they look the same. the only difference is the studs. i have various rims and also have them powdercoated in whatever colour. Depends what you want to spend.

Also have new or used lockers in stock ;)

Good luck with the build.

You can do some pretty extream stuff with the trucks but still keep it fairly safe for the family.
Lincomb is a good club meet if you want get to meet some people and have some fun in the truck. Families welcome.
 

karl webster

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What's the stud difference? What's the diameter, width and et? Sorry just interested to know... And price wise... Well depends what you're after...?

As for locker... Well prob gonna need one as everything on the rear axle is foobared by the looks of it.
Ill drop you a pm .
 

chapel gate

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What's the stud difference? What's the diameter, width and et? Sorry just interested to know... And price wise... Well depends what you're after...?

As for locker... Well prob gonna need one as everything on the rear axle is foobared by the looks of it.
There are three different styles of 80 series rim in the UK. All looking completely different.
The most well known are the ones in andys picture.
The early ones used tapered wheel nuts. The later ones washered.
The studs are all the same.
They are 16x8 with zero off set.
 
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Finiterex

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Sounds
There are three different styles of 80 series rim in the UK. All looking completely different.
The most well known are the ones in andys picture.
The early ones used tapered wheel nuts. The later ones washered.
The studs are all the same.
They are 16x8 with zero off set.
Sounds ideal... was thinking I might have to go negative offset but up for trying zeros at the much lower cost than buying new rims!
 
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Finiterex

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On another note - anyone know of a set of rear light clusters that can be used to provide brakes/tail lights/indicators *and* fog. I've seen a few write ups on converting the existing clusters and/or using Prado ones but doesn't include fog lights. Aftermarket stuff is fine (although e stamped would help).
 

diggerdave

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Here's my own experience with rear diff lock actuator with some photos showing the 'tail' of loom that should be attached to the actuator. I don't know why, but it looks as though someone has cut it off yours.

If I've read your posts right then you'll be putting a new axle casing on the car and a new difflock actuator (assume the old one will be fubared). As long as you buy new it will come with the relevant section of loom attached to match the plug.

If you buy a second-hand 80 front actuator it too will have the relevant bit of wiring loom attached, but I found that the plug was different. As you don't have the old plug, you won't be able to do what I did, which is splice in the plug from my old actuator.
 

diggerdave

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In fact, looking at your picture more closely... someone has got part way through the job of removing your original, as there's a big chunk missing! Looks like they gave up and blanked it off. :icon-biggrin:

I do think you might need a bit more loom though. The plug socket above the remains of your actuator is for a position switch that is screwed into the top of the axle housing (which tells the ECU when the difflock is on, and causes the light to go on on the dashboard). If I remember correctly there should be a short section of wiring from the plug that you have dangling, which splits into two plugs - one for the actuator and one for the position switch.

Here's a parts diagram for the axle - it doesn't show the loom bit that's required, but it might be shown in some of the other diagrams if you search around.
 
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MarkW

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when I bought my new actuator it didn't come with any loom. I'm in need of one after discovering that somehow the loom it ripped apart :(
 

Finiterex

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In fact, looking at your picture more closely... someone has got part way through the job of removing your original, as there's a big chunk missing! Looks like they gave up and blanked it off. :icon-biggrin:

I do think you might need a bit more loom though. The plug socket above the remains of your actuator is for a position switch that is screwed into the top of the axle housing (which tells the ECU when the difflock is on, and causes the light to go on on the dashboard). If I remember correctly there should be a short section of wiring from the plug that you have dangling, which splits into two plugs - one for the actuator and one for the position switch.

Here's a parts diagram for the axle - it doesn't show the loom bit that's required, but it might be shown in some of the other diagrams if you search around.
Thanks for all the info diggerdave and Markw... And massive thanks to Karl for sourcing me a bunch of parts and the helpful chat last night!

So I think you're right. Axle is now out and yep someone has blanked off the actuator hole... Will be cutting off the blanking plate tomorrow to see what's left in there. Axle is toast... Even my fabricator mate is like 'I've worked some miracles but...'

Karl is sending me a new actuator along with 80 wheels.. And trying to find an axle... If no joy I'll be popping over to milners to take out a mortgage on a new casing. Also got to get the diff out tomorrow. The bolts are soaking over night.

Mark - looking at the wiring diagram it looks like 82127... That look like the right bit?

Here's some photos of the axle carnage:

 

MarkW

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that looks like the right one. always hard to tell exactly from the diagram! probably expensive from Toyota, I've manged to snap mine over the last 2 trips I've done.

Your best investing in a new casing if you can, I've been down the 2nd hand route and it was as a bad as the one I had and getting my fabricator to create one decent one out of the 2 I had cost a fair bit
 
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