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Towing question

adrianr

Well-Known Member
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Mar 4, 2010
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I have to start moving VW Golfs on a twin axle car trailer.

don't yet have a tow bar set up on the 80. i don't want something that hangs down too far and acts as a plough when I'm off road would i best fit a receiver hitch to a standard to bar set up or for the work i have in mind would this sort of thing work straight off the back crossmember (plus wiring etc)?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Universal...1&pid=100005&rk=3&rkt=6&sd=261787960863&rt=nc

dropping the tow ball down will cause some twist / torsion on the cross member but was wondering if you felt it would be acceptable.



Thank you
 
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I would say no, but you should be able to find a tow bar receiver bracket that's suitable, IMO a receiver is the most practical solution, plug and play when you need it and remove when offroad.

That's what I have, but the receiver is built into the ARB rear bumper/spare wheel carrier bar.
 
I have a standard 80 towbar here with all the bits but no bolts, very cheap
I used one like your link on our Defender 110 for over 70k without a problem, but we did put 2 stays from the bottom of the fixed bit to the chassis
 
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I have a Toyota tow bar like this one http://www.landcruiserclub.net/forums/showthread.php/54304-80-Series-Genuine-Toyota-HD-Towbar and it's a pretty solid piece of kit. The bottom edge is just under 1ft above the ground with standard suspension. I've read/heard that the mount in the rear crossmember isn't 'approved' for towing in the UK? Don't know for sure if that's the case, I always thought the 80 series was old enough to escape such legislation but I've never seen a 80 towing a caravan or trailer using that mount.
 
the rear crossmember you are talking about is part of the chassis and not designed to tow from, fit a towbar. in northern ireland the towbar is part of the m.o.t. inspection.
 
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I use my rear cross member to tow on. I dont understand why people say its not. Why would toyota fit the hitches to it? How is something that is bolt to the same part i am towing from any stronger?
Its fine dont worry.
 
I use my rear cross member to tow on. I dont understand why people say its not. Why would toyota fit the hitches to it? How is something that is bolt to the same part i am towing from any stronger?
Its fine dont worry.

I would agree that the rear member is ok when using a NATO hitch, which is what the member mounting is designed for. But the OP asked if it was suitable for a receiver.

Receivers by their nature require slinging under the chassis member to get the required length, and IMO, the offset force on a receiver under the cross member will need some support behind it, such as a tow bar bracket.

I can't see any way to mount a receiver safely, without adequate support. JMHO.
 
There would be no difference in bolts the slider hitch instead of a nato hitch. They both have the same bolt pattern in the same holes. These bolt in the middle and dont drop that far so you would get that much flex. Compared to if it dropped down a foot or so.
He is towing a golf not upto the cruisers weight limit.
I put on of these on my collie and was fine.
Stu
 
You may be able to put a drop plate on. Personally though I wouldn't. I've used one in the past with my little motorbike trailer but that obviously doesn't weigh anything.
I had a tow bar that came in on a truck that had a receiver type set up as part of the tow bar. These are a rare item in the uk apparently but at the time I didn't know. If I did I'd still have it.

peronally i think, anything to do with towing, you need to be over engineered not under.
 
But the link the op put was for a drop down plate not a reciver hitch.
 
Those drop plates bolt to the Chasie and the standard tobar don't they Stu? I may just be a little paranoid but wouldn't like to tow 2.2 tonne off the rear crossmember.
 
No they only have 4 bolt holes not 6 or more. The rear cross member would be as strong as using a tow bar that bolts onto the 4 captive nuts in the chassis railsI have a tow bar that spreads the load over the cross member and the rails but dont use it very often as it a bit of a plough. If you up the top of the weight limit its on tging but a golf on a trailer is not heavy at all. I expect less then 2t. all in.Stu
 
No they only have 4 bolt holes not 6 or more. The rear cross member would be as strong as using a tow bar that bolts onto the 4 captive nuts in the chassis railsI have a tow bar that spreads the load over the cross member and the rails but dont use it very often as it a bit of a plough. If you up the top of the weighlo z t limit its on tging but a golf on a trailer is not heavy at all. I expect less then 2t. all in.Stu
 
No they only have 4 bolt holes not 6 or more. The rear cross member would be as strong as using a tow bar that bolts onto the 4 captive nuts in the chassis railsI have a tow bar that spreads the load over the cross member and the rails but dont use it very often as it a bit of a plough. If you up the top of the weighlo z t limit its on tging but a golf on a trailer is not heavy at all. I expect less then 2t. all in.Stu
 
Surely if its a braked trailer with a balanced load you wouldn't get anywhere near the curb weight at your hitch and the biggest stress will come from acceleration .
 
Thank you all for your input.

In this instance I've agreed to take the offer of the Toyota one from CWC. I think for towing the golf and light stuff you are right Stumog. And I agree with you Karl on the over engineering side. And if the toyota one turns out to be a problem on the laning ill have to convert it into a receiver hitch. Pity i can't use the nato hitch i have on the back cross member now. It has worked well as a reversing sensor.
 
Surely if its a braked trailer with a balanced load you wouldn't get anywhere near the curb weight at your hitch and the biggest stress will come from acceleration .

Not too sure what you mean by "curb weight at your hitch". The max towing weight (or overall train weight ) for a vehicle is derived at from it's weight and pulling power. All trailers over 750kg require brakes but this is more for control under braking rather than limiting weight at the tow bar. As far as the hitch is concerned there's no difference between pulling 2t and having 2t pushing it under braking. The brakes on heavy trailers prevent the trailer itself trying to pivot round the hitch and 'overtake' the towing vehicle, particularly under heavy braking. JMO
 
Nose weight is the more common term I reckon?
 
Nose weight is the more common term I reckon?

Nose weight is a different issue. Again, the max nose weight will be specified by the vehicle manufacturer and in some cases the tow bar manufacturer but incorrect nose weight can certainly affect handling. When I first started towing the caravan, in my ignorance, I decided the lighter the nose weight the better so I put all the weight in the van to the rear so you could lift the hitch with one finger and you guessed it, it was fishtailing all over the place! Loaded up with a decent nose weight it's rock solid even without a stabiliser. Ignorance is no excuse as they say and it's certainly bloody dangerous!
 
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