Towing question

[Shayne]

I was referring to stress on the cross member you can move a trailer of maybe a ton on your own and all it takes is a bit of huffing and puffing to get it moving in the first place but once it's moving the stress is all but gone .

 

[clivehorridge]

I don't yet have a tow bar set up on the 80. i don't want something that hangs down too far and acts as a plough when I'm off road would i best fit a receiver hitch to a standard tow bar set up or for the work i have in mind would this sort of thing work straight off the back crossmember (plus wiring etc)?dropping the tow ball down will cause some twist / torsion on the cross member but was wondering if you felt it would be acceptable. Thank you

Going back to the OP, maybe I should clarify that I would have no problem using the dropper in the link, directly mounted to the crossmember.

However, a receiver is a different animal, and needs a different approach to mounting IMO.

 

[Iwan]

examples and experience

With all the cruisers I've had and used for towing weight.. I've always believed that the stronger the better as it is yourself that will be towing and confidence in your rig is paramount.


This is what's on my 81. I am not a fan of this! Saying that the previous owner used to tow a 16ft tri axle ivor williams trailer fully loaded with scaffolding daily.


Had this setup on my first 70 series and that was again towing a 16ft ivor williams twin axle daily with full loads of roofing slates, oak beams etc. It towed from 2001 to 2010 did it ok until the rear cross member got pushed into the diesel tank. Since then I have lost confidence in this mounting point.


This setup on my current workhorse is so safe and it does tow loads that you have to use low box to get up the hills! IMHO to know that your towbar is well attached to the truck gives confidence and a safety to other road users.

This red 70 has the factory fitted recovery hoop on the rear cross member.

Hope this helps

 

[Towpack]

I think another point to consider is corrosion. If I was intent on using the rear crossmember mount, given the age of 80 series vehicles, I'd at least want to remove the bumpers etc and check that the rear member and chassis rails were sound, particularly at the corners.

 

[chapel gate]

Any one know what the rear cross member is actually rated at for towing?

as shayne said must at least be a ton or so else there would be no point to it. Dragging fuel bowsers about maybe?
most I have towed was 5 ton. Drove the 3 miles home in low range...

 

[StarCruiser]

First thing I did was fit a Witter bar to the back of mine. Had plenty of weight on it and it fixes underneath the rails AND onto the rear cross member. Bit of a plough off road but I've towed a 7.5 tonne truck 5 miles home by it before now, up Duncton hill.

 

[David]

First thing I did was fit a Witter bar to the back of mine. Had plenty of weight on it and it fixes underneath the rails AND onto the rear cross member. Bit of a plough off road but I've towed a 7.5 tonne truck 5 miles home by it before now, up Duncton hill.

That's how the one I have just let go fits

 

[StarCruiser]

It looked like yours was held to the chassis with vertical plates. Mine is less nicely designed with angle irons bolted underneath. Good n solid though.

 

[Towpack]

Any one know what the rear cross member is actually rated at for towing?

as shayne said must at least be a ton or so else there would be no point to it. Dragging fuel bowsers about maybe?
most I have towed was 5 ton. Drove the 3 miles home in low range...

Been googling trying to find this but got no where. The (1997) owner's manual says to tow "only with an approved tow bar". Maybe the rear crossmember mount was 'approved' for towing back when the first 80's hit the road and it was just never removed from production. Pre 1st Aug '98 reg vehicles don't need a type approved tow bar anyway so I guess this means you could make your own? If there's some doubt is it really worth risking? JMO

 

[uHu]

The 105 I was offered by TMC in 1998, had an approval of 1580 kg towing capacity for the Towing Hook with Pintle Hook in the rear bumper/crossmember, with brakes. 750 kg without brakes.
Might say something about the strength of that mount.

 

[David]

Pic of my bar

 

[clivehorridge]

Sorry, I like over engineered stuff, thick angle bolted to the chassis rails, can't beat it. The rear crossmember is dial skin, but it's thin stuff, not like a towbar. JMO

 

[Shayne]

Does anyone know the wall thickness of a factory tow bar ?

 

[StarCruiser]

Photos of my Witter tow bar.



I must pull it off and give it a paint this year. [emoji9]

 

[Towpack]

Does anyone know the wall thickness of a factory tow bar ?

This is the one I have but I think there may be a lighter duty one.

http://www.landcruiserclub.net/forums/showthread.php/54304-80-Series-Genuine-Toyota-HD-Towbar

The end plates, chassis mounting brackets and the tow ball mounting section are all 10mm. I would imagine the main beam will be the same. It's bloody heavy.

 

[David]

Yes it's quite heavy

 

[Shayne]

Jeez mines heavy but i can't imagine the main beam being 10mm , just toying with the idea of having the rear cross member chopped out and replaced with box section to include a receiver but not much advantage if it will weigh considerably more than the bits it replaces .

 

[clivehorridge]

I would have thought you could mount a lighter than 10mm tow bar behind the rear crossmember and send a receiver tube through the crossmember with a plate to mount onto the crossmember captive nuts. The receiver could have flanges welded on to bolt to the bar, and welded to the outer plate or vice versa.

That way you get the benefit of both and it would be neat to remove the towing ball for that extra offroad height.

My rear bumper with the integral receiver is high, but I still catch it on rocks and stuff.



The dropper on mine is on the receiver bar, which is easily detachable.

 

[StarCruiser]

Hmmm. Nice [emoji4]

I really must get out more…

 

[Beau]

I think the factory chassis ends where most tow bars are designed to bolt onto are strong enough for what these trucks are capable of pulling. However, I did over engineer the plates they bolt on to onto the chassis ends with thicker steel, as well as where the tow ball mounting bolts onto the frame itself. 10mm steel, bolted design! It also goes down to how smooth you are when towing in my opinion.

Most I've towed is 4 tonnes from Scotland down to London and I had no problem. Keep your trailer well balanced and you'll be fine!