Don't like the adverts?  Click here to remove them

1kz-te Rookie!

The various head gasket part numbers are different thickness gaskets. I believe they sell 1,3,5 hole gasket. I believe stock engines tend to have 2 hole gaskets so most people run a 3 hole gasket on replacement. If you skim the head/block then the 5 hole gasket is probably more appropriate
 
The various head gasket part numbers are different thickness gaskets. I believe they sell 1,3,5 hole gasket. I believe stock engines tend to have 2 hole gaskets so most people run a 3 hole gasket on replacement. If you skim the head/block then the 5 hole gasket is probably more appropriate
Thanks Beau. A part supplier gave me the same response.
 
Ok "CruiserHeads"!.. I have a little update on the work.
I can finally say I'm enjoying driving this Landcruiser!!!
We installed a new head,head gasket,head bolts,temperature sensor,new oil and filter of course.
Fan Clutch, fan blades, new blanking plates for the EGR and removed the bigger actuator. Returned all remaining vacuum lines to their correct positions. And changed the oil in the transfer case. I ordered the crankshaft position sensor, will install as soon as it arrives.
20190105_234443.jpg
20190105_234609.jpg

EGR blocked(manifold side), head looks great.....Now only if I knew what to do about the manifold cover?...
20190106_151356.jpg
EGR throttle body side. Also blocked off the line for the bigger actuator which has been removed.
Repositioned that solenoid to secure it.(had to add a little length the vacuum main line)
20190105_234843.jpg
Fan/Fan Clutch
With the oil change in the transfer case, I have a question.
When researching to buy the correct oil, I found that Toyota recommends using 75w90 for the transfer case.
But some suggest using 80w90 is fine. And would not be an issue in this hot temperature environment.
What do you think?
Also I'm currently still running with no thermostat.....
Need more input guys.... Well that's all for now....
Cheers "CruiserHeads"!!
 
If you can get the 75w90 which toyota suggest then best use it. But if not, I think the 80 weight would work fine.

Stick in a 72 degree stat which is the lowest available one, otherwise during slow in-town traffic you may find the engine isn't getting hot enough for maximum efficiency.

Also, that lower rad looks like it could do with a bit of a clean out. Have a look in-between the rad and condensor and you'll probably find it's more blocked. Are you using a rad cowl?
 
Thanks Shayne and Beau.View attachment 151557
17650E is the solenoid I'm referring to. But in this diagram it does not show the third hose on the bottom of it. Seems as though mine are in the wrong place.
Hi i'm struggling with the same thing. Did you ever find out where that third hose went? Any help would be appreciated .
 
Hi i'm struggling with the same thing. Did you ever find out where that third hose went? Any help would be appreciated .
There is no 3rd line to that solenoid. I got a new one from Ebay. Then I put everything else according to that diagram. Have you removed egr? Mine has been removed so I had to block one of the lines coming from the lower solenoid.
 
Last edited:
Don't like the adverts?  Click here to remove them
Hey cruiserheads, since completing the last work on the engine I'm happy to say that I have solved the problem of overheating!
As for the 4x4... Turns out I was missing the chain... so I've put in a new one and changed the gear it connects to. (Don't know the name).
New mechanic and I worked on it and he showed me the wear on it. Which is why it was probably removed in the first place.
I've also strengthened steering with a new steering rack and ends. Also the right side lower and upper control arms were replaced.
For the first time since owning this car, I can feel the power when accelerating. By the way I'm still running with no thermostat....Next up is adding a oil catch can. Thank you all for your assistance.
 
Sounding like you’ve made good progress. I would fit a thermostat if I were you to ensure the engine gets to operating temperature quickly. Have a look at some vids on oil catch cans. The word is they are mostly unnecessary and the oil mist they remove is actually useful in lubricating the valve stems to a degree.
Why do you want to fit one?
 
There is no 3rd line to that solenoid. I got a new one from Ebay. Then I put everything else according to that diagram. Have you removed egr? Mine has been removed so I had to block one of the lines coming from the lower solenoid.

Thanks for replying buddy. Strange how both our cars had a third hose attached? Maybe the cap had fallen off and it was a quick fix
 
Sounding like you’ve made good progress. I would fit a thermostat if I were you to ensure the engine gets to operating temperature quickly. Have a look at some vids on oil catch cans. The word is they are mostly unnecessary and the oil mist they remove is actually useful in lubricating the valve stems to a degree.
Why do you want to fit one?
SC I've seen what I think is to much oil around the throttle body hose which goes to the intercooler. But I was also told to change the plastic cover on the top of the head as it is old and had some cracks that were sealed as best as possible. (Just came off the trail. Engine is usually cleaner..) so that's why I thought to add the oil catch can.
20190410_074945.jpg
20190410_075137.jpg
 
Thanks for replying buddy. Strange how both our cars had a third hose attached? Maybe the cap had fallen off and it was a quick fix
The cap is definitely missing if you have three lines attached to that solenoid. If you scroll back a little in this post you can see what it's suppose to look like and the diagram shows where the vacuum lines go. Also I bought the new solenoid here. https://www.ebay.com/itm/90910-12126-TOYOTA-GENUINE-VACUUM-SWITCHING-VALVE-ASSY-FOR-LAND-CRUISER-HIACE/183194129544?_mwBanner=1&ul_ref=https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/e11050.m43.l1123/7?euid=400dfa9ee9d44d7b9e4ad16787174e2b&bu=44370607053&loc=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F183194129544&sojTags=bu=bu&srcrot=e11050.m43.l1123&rvr_id=0&rvr_ts=07e22abe16a0ab14f8051da0ffb2bbeb&ul_noapp=true&pageci=5a2d310c-3763-4e58-95e3-5c0d9f3faf2b&epid=664094959
 
SC I've seen what I think is to much oil around the throttle body hose which goes to the intercooler. But I was also told to change the plastic cover on the top of the head as it is old and had some cracks that were sealed as best as possible. (Just came off the trail. Engine is usually cleaner..) so that's why I thought to add the oil catch can.View attachment 155298 View attachment 155300
I’ve previously enquired about this very thing to a mechanic and his reply was that they are all like it. I wasn’t satisfied with that, so when I had the chance, removed the short connecting hose and cleaned it and the pipes it fitted to and smeared the mating surfaces with RTV sealant. The pipe was completely covered with oil soaked dust so it was virtually invisible. Since the sealing, it has remained clean.

Your pipe looks to be aftermarket and possibly I’ll fitting/delaminating. I suggest measuring it and obtaining a silicone one of the correct size from wherever (eBay or Demon Tweaks) but get a good one or better still, the proper one from Amayama, Partsouq or Megazip. The clamps are non genuine too. Though they are good, they may not be ideal.

Heat and overtightening the rocker cover will have caused it to crack. Probably trying to seal a hardened rocker cover gasket.
 
Last edited:
I’ve previously enquiries about this very thing to a mechanic and his reply was that they are all like it. I wasn’t satisfied with that, so when I had the chance, removed the short connecting hose and cleaned it and the pipes it fitted to and smeared the mating surfaces with RTV sealant. The pipe was completely covered with oil soaked dust so it was virtually invisible. Since the sealing, it has remained clean.

Your pipe looks to be aftermarket and possibly I’ll fitting/delaminating. I suggest measuring it and obtaining a silicone one of the correct size from wherever (eBay or Demon Tweaks) but get a good one or better still, the proper one from Amayama, Partsouq or Megazip. The clamps are non genuine too. Though they are good, they may not be ideal.

Heat and overtightening the rocker cover will have caused it to crack. Probably trying to seal a hardened rocker cover gasket.
SC, the pipe or hose is for a hilux... needed something fast and that was all I could get at the time. Clamps are not genuine but they seem very sturdy.
There is a stronger vibration from the intercooler because the mount on the front left side is missing ..... Thanks for your advice. I'll look into the original parts. (Hose and clamps)
Currently doing some work on pinion seal and lifting the front by adding 3/4" plates. Also have to do an alignment as the right side wheel is sitting to far back in the wheel well..
 
Last edited:
…Also have to do an alignment as the right side wheel is setting to far back in the wheel well..
That doesn’t sound good at all! One to check very carefully. Sounds like it may have had a bump.
 
That doesn’t sound good at all! One to check very carefully. Sounds like it may have had a bump.
Oh it did have more than a bump..... That's why I replaced the steering rack and control arms and lower ball joint.. But my guy checked it all out and said it needs a caster adjustment. After the lift tomorrow I'll have the alignment done. I'm hoping all goes well...
 
Since fitting my catch can, it's removed about 90% of the oil seepage around the Intake manifold. Takes a good 10k miles before the can has about a cupful of thick looking oil.
 
hey Cruiserheads, I have some new issues I need your assistance with.
So I start up and pull off fine, but after a few mins or some rough roads my engine revs when I accelerate but transmission doesn't seem to engage. I then have to stop and turn off the engine and after restart I can continue. I have so far cleaned all the switches on the transmission with electric contact cleaner and changed the transmission oil. But same outcome.
Any suggestions?
@Beau
I would like to locate the earth wire you were talking about in another post. Near the oil filter, right?
 
Last edited:
Sound like an electrical issue. You might want to check as well if you have a drop in voltage from the alternator and if the battery is good.
 
Yup. The earth is on the filter housing. Make sure these are good.
 
Sound like an electrical issue. You might want to check as well if you have a drop in voltage from the alternator and if the battery is good.
leeloo, it does seem to be electrical. After a quick check I noticed a loose ground on the right side battery. Just put a new battery connector. check the alternator this weekend. Thanks leeloo
 
Back
Top