Hi Roman and Ed
Geese I wish I could say im enjoying as much as you are Roman. Tyring to
grasp as you say the basic laws of physics in one go is quite tricky to say
the least. I am not powering this hugh american style fridge and ice maker.
I am just trying to make life on long journeys a little more pleasant with
the kids. Its a small portable fridge or electiic cooler box . enough to
keep a few things like cans of minerals and chocolate cool. Its only anout
12x12x12 in size and thats inches not feet. I bought it in a french super
market a while back and its a light blue.
I really dont ask much in life other than to power a few toys in the cruiser
to keep the cops off my back and keep the kids from killing each other , not
much really.
What I know about auto electrics can be summed up in one sentance.
YOU plug it in, it works.
My head beam is still gone and I had to order a new relay from Toy for that.
So im hoping that when I put that in it wont blow cause its another problem
some where else that will come up again and bite me in the wallet.
I have bought a wiring booster kit on ebay and hope that will help with this
problem.
I dont want to leave it in unless I really have to to the auto guy cause he
loves seeing me and is always very pleasant when presenting me with the big
bill.
But if it is a case of getting him to wire a three way socket with the thick
wire and a fuse to the battery so I can use these gadgets then thats what
will have to be done. I can always eat just every second day and in the
process become slim and trim, o yea but then I am still old and grey.
Come on give me your ideas on the electrical issue.
John C
92HDJ 80 1HDT Ireland
----- Original Message -----
From: "Roman" <[Email address removed]>
To: <[Email address removed]>
Sent: Tuesday, November 15, 2005 11:19 AM
Subject: Re: [ELCO] DIN socket
Hello guys,
I am entirely enjoying this thread and the heroic attempsts at making
everyday physics even simpler to grasp by beginners, but it seems John
is still getting the wrong ideas. I apologize for chipping in, but
maybe this is going to help:
The splitter gets hot because it creates electrical resistance to the
current passing between the batter and the devices powered though it.
Resistance is generated by the conductor(s) in the splitter. It may be
the result of
A) the splitter wiring being too thin,
B) the points of contact between the metal parts (plug/socket) being
too small, or
C) an intermittent air gap between the points of contact (which leads
to sparking), or
D) A combination of some or all of the above
Electrical resistance is turned into heat (see electric space
heaters). The purpose of electrical wiring, on the other hand, is to
conduct current with as little resistance as possible. Electrical
fuses are there to ensure that the flow of current is stopped before
it exceeds the safe limit of wire conductance and the wire gets too
hot (leading to insulation meltdown and a fire).
It is also worth observing that some electrical powered fridges draw
heavy current at startup, so each time the fridge thermostat turns it
on, it draws current exceeding several times the rated current. That
may not necessarily blow the circuit fuse yet still create lots of
heat for a short while. If the fridge keeps turning on and off, it may
lead to melting cheap plastic connectors.
Finally, if the OEM fuse in the cig lighter circuit does not blow, it
is because:
A) it is above the specified capacity
B) the splitter performs below the maximum OEM cig lighter circuit capacity
In John's case:
If condition A) is met, then is advised not to fool around with fuses
or face the consequences
If condition B) is met, then is advised not to wast the money on crap
accessories
Ideally, to power a fridge it's best to run a separate 30 amp rated
wire through a 30A fuse from a leisure (deep cycle) battery. For that
it's recommended to use a split charger/relay to preserve the starter
battery. Splitters are best left for powering only small gadgets.
--
Rgds,
Roman (London, UK)
'92 HDJ80
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