Do these CV angles look OK and steering tie-rod end angle

AndyCook

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slightly concerned the lift on front on landcruiser is a tad too high. I will load up front with sacks of chicken food (40kg) tonight and homebrewing malt sack (25kg), to simulate weight of of winch and winch mount that are going on, to check again.

here are some pics, do the CV angles look OK, and also the steering rods have a quite and angle on them.

It seems to drive OK, but wife moaned there was a bit of shaking in steering wheel when she drove it- subtle but annoying after a while. I didnt notice anything too bad this morning, to me it felt like more feedback from road surface due to firmer suspension setup.

some pics

IMG_2062.jpg


IMG_2063.jpg


IMG_2064.jpg


IMG_2065.jpg
 

DaveWall

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Doesn't look terrible to me, but hard to tell from the pictures....

How much have you lifted the front?

Noticing some wabble MAY be steering rack bushes just taking a bit more of a kicking with the raised front end...

Dave
 

AndyCook

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cheers

Just replaced the aRB links with Nissan Terrano ones at front and new colorado fronts at the rear.

but do you mean the chassis hoops and bushes Chris?
 
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AndyCook

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I also adjusted the rear brake adjuster. I thought i was going to have to weld a new bracket on higher up on axle (as i did in previous 4runner). but was pleased to discover the system is bolted onto a slot in a metal plate already - at the lowest point, and after loosening one of the nuts, i was able to slide it all up 40mm right to the top to the slot, to compensate for the lift!.
 

Chris

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No, not anti roll bar links Andy, anti roll bar MOUNTS. The stirrup things in the picture that the bar pivots in. Maybe that is what you refer to as chassis hoops? Also your links, in the picture are screwed down way too much. You only need to tighten the nut until the washers stop jingling. They are rubber (poly) for a reason. If you screw them down that hard they effectively become solid and then you have no shock absorbency in there. Gradually over their life you nip them up as you need to. Now looking at the pictures, they all look old to me. Are you saying that you swapped these AFTER taking the pics? 'Cos the rubbers looks shagged.

Now, the top wishbone does look a little low to me. I just wonder if the spring etc is seated right. They were the +50kg IIRC but looks like maybe you've a little more lift than expected. Not bad news or anything, just a bit more than I did. Were they a devil to compress? Are the coils even all round or is there any bulging out to one side of the damper at all? See what some weight and a drive around in a circle does for it.

Chris
 

Chris

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Not sure if that is just an hoptical dilusion.

I don't think that it can be out like that on a 90. Think there is a bit of fisheye going on. Odd angles though I agree and the wheel does look like it's about to fall off.

Chris
 

AndyCook

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replaced the the links and rubber bushes on them since i took the photo.
i did torque them (bushes end) to 26 NM as in maunual, maybe i will slacken a bit if still looking too compressed.

the front springs are +50-100 - thats what TBR recommended when i said i was installing a winch mount and winch...

yes they were a bugger to compress, but look even all round - same on both sides
 

Chris

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Hmm, let's see what they look like with some load on then Andy. I think that they look very slightly high. Not outrageously so, just a little bit maybe. I had my mount and winch on at the same time so never really got a look at them uncompressed.

On the ARB links, I just nip them till the washers stop spinning. You need a little tweak more when on the level as when you corner, one loads up and the other, obviously, unloads allowing the washers to move.

Chris
 

AndyCook

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ta for the advice on the ARB links

I've had another thought - the top of the spring towers, the part with the 3 bolts. Does that only fit to the vehicle in one direction? I forgot to mark it up, before removing it.

When i replaced my subaru's springs a few weeks ago, this part had to go back in the same as it came out, but it the part obviously not the same thickness, and it was also marked with an arrow (out) for fitting correctly.

The same part, on the landcruiser didn't have any markings, and seemed to be even thickness all the way round, i just used the indentation in the rubber from the previous spring as a guide to locate it.
The bottom mount on shock had obvious locating point for the end of the spring.
 

Chris

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No, top of the spring is flat. Nothing directional there. It all look square in the pics. It maybe that it really is just up on the springs at present. I bet front ground clearance looks good! With a ball joint drop kit and a diff drop too, the 90 IFS can go pretty high. But too much and you are bound to run into problems. This is a standard mod. So you should be OK.

Chris
 

BobMurphy

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Chris said:
On the ARB links, I just nip them till the washers stop spinning. You need a little tweak more when on the level as when you corner, one loads up and the other, obviously, unloads allowing the washers to move.
Chris

I may be wrong (it has been known :oops: ) but the ARB is a 'Torsion Bar' and its the resistance to twisting that stabilises the body roll. The ends need to be held firm, whilst allowing a change in angle as the body & suspension move in relation to each other.

The top nut on the drop link should be torqued up to 14 lbs/ft according to the book which compresses the rubbers quite a lot. I can't help feeling that if the nut is looser it will cause the load to be transferred from the bar to the rubbers, which they are not designed for.

I'd be interested to hear the arguments for & against.

Bob.
 

AndyCook

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I'd be interested to hear the arguments for & against.
so would I, because I have just been out loosening them!, i did have them torqued down to 25 NM - i.e. 19 lbs/ft as manual
actually, i just looked at the manual, and the rubber is quite compressed in the photo - Max Ellery
 

silvercruiser

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AndyCook said:
I'd be interested to hear the arguments for & against.
so would I, because I have just been out loosening them!, i did have them torqued down to 25 NM - i.e. 19 lbs/ft as manual
actually, i just looked at the manual, and the rubber is quite compressed in the photo - Max Ellery
Im Not saying thta your wrong but max ellery told me i had to take the timing belt off to change the water pump when you clearly didnt need too.

Joe
 

AndyCook

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interesting point, i noticed that too once.

i have also seen vastly different torque figures in the manual for the same nut/bolt. sometimes the manual quotes a figure in the main text, in addition to the end of chapter figures, and in a few places they disagree!
 

Chris

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Bob, I agree, but I think that torque figures are pointless here. I go with 'feel' on something like this. I have had ARB links with nylocs and without. With std nuts they need to be tight enough to stop them coming loose, with nylocs, one turn is enough. I wasn't suggesting that I had them finger tight. I used the phrase 'nipped.' It depends on the rubbers too. If you have the ones that are nearly an inch thick, if you fully compress them they split. If you have the thin ones, they hardly distort at all.

Of course it is a torsion bar, but I feel that having it solid was not in the designer's mind. The rubber is there for a purpose, the principal ones probably to allow movement in the arm - as a flexible joint, one to reduce transmitted vibration and then possibly to provide a little softer interface and give to prevent shock to other components. If you jag it up tight, I feel that you loose some of this and you certainly stiffen up the feel which for my vehicle which as you know was used off road, was not a benefit.

That's my view. But I repeat, I never said have them loose. I have been driving Landcruisers for about 15 years now, always had them set like that and never suffered any issues. Where I did have problems was when I overtightened them and they split and wore out the other bushes that go in the split stirrups.

Chris
 

AndyCook

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looking better now winch and mount fitted - wire rope yet to go on - the lot weighs 60kg

front has dropped down 2cm compared to after suspension lift, back-end still same height as post-suspension lift

so - might avoid any camber adjustment
 
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