Excessive play in transfer box KZJ90

[BobMurphy]

So how about pinion bearing gives up wearing on the crush sleeve making all the very tight tolerances in there kaput ?

If the Drive Pinion (the one that turns the Crownwheel) has worn bearings there will be 'in and out' play at the Companion Flange. This will show up at the Propshaft Slip joint - so quite easy to test .

Bob.

 

[Shayne]

 

[BobMurphy]

Hmmmmmmm. There does seem to be a lot of slack (and noise) in there. I'd want to strip it down and investigate the cause.

From memory (without re-reading seven pages ) you have a second Transfer box. Can that go in as a temp measure if you need to keep the truck on the road ??

Bob.

 

[Shayne]

Spare is an auto box Bob if i thought i could i would just swap and see .

Do you still think its the box because i can't help thinking the shock load is powerful enough to trash a dodgy box in no time at all . She's done about 4 thousand miles like this without it getting any worse ?

Been trying to find out who or where got a dual mass flywheel because if i had one and it was buggered that might explain why the clutch engages with no slip at all . Roughtrax don't know and Simon Holton doesn't know and some bloke in Oz said they definitely didn't get dual mass down under - the next post said "well i did" ???

I think the whole gear box needs to come out before i spend any more on parts

 

[MarkW]

Doesn't roughtrax list a dual mass replacement for imports only? that'd suggest the UK trucks didn't have them I suppose.

 

[Shayne]

R/T said dual mass might have been an optional thing , Simon said he would put money on it being a solid wheel but couldn't say for certain . Lots of web searching which should produce results if all European or Jap import trucks had dual mass got me nowhere ?

Why then do both Milners and Roughtrax offer a conversion ?

 

[MarkW]

maybe it was Japanese models only with the dual mass as both say for japanese import only. It would be strange for toyota to have 2 different flywheel across the model range though.

 

[Shayne]

It's just one of many theories thought up when i should be sleeping the only way to know for sure is to pull everything apart . Hours of web searching does suggest this is a 1kd specific problem and its short production life before the all new 120 was released makes me wonder if i may have got a guinea pig ?

A number of web posts i have found draw Bob into the conversation but nobody reports back which makes me think they are embarrassed to admit after long drawn out transfer box convo's that the problem turned out to be something else altogether .

 

[Shayne]

​

A sectioned dual-mass flywheel.
Since their adoption by most manufacturers, primarily for their diesel models, a dual-mass flywheel (DMF) differs from the more conventional ‘solid’ type, by having a flexible damper built within it. Intended to absorb stresses from the engine and transmission, they can fail prematurely, causing a metallic ‘clanking’ sound and/or vibration to be felt at certain engine speeds. It is recommended by many technicians that dual mass flywheels are replaced at every clutch change. Still, excessive clutch slip can put undue stress on the dual-mass flywheel and reduce its operating life.

 

[Shayne]

Well its not the clutch with front prop removed the bang is gone .

 

[diggerdave]

Exactly my experience Shayne

Which MUST (surely?) mean the fault is in the front diff, front drive part of the transfer box, or the driveshafts (although I have recently had brand new complete driveshafts, so rules them out in my case).

Have you tried without the rear prop attached? In my case that made the bang worse

 

[Shayne]

Problem is at the front so no point in removing the rear prop . I was interested to note that front prop actually needed the encouragement of a hammer to come out even after all the flange bolts where removed , very little slide action but i was soaked by then so just chucked it in the shed to look at tomorrow .

 

[diggerdave]

Just curious, as that was the way round I tried it at first. The fact that removing the rear made the shunt worse only reinforces my opinion about the cause(s).

Same here WRT removing the prop and needing a hammer blow or two - suspect it's normal, certainly the same with the rear prop as well.

 

[Shayne]

If i bolt a lever on the diff flange while it's jacked up i should find out how much play there is from diff to wheels .

 

[StarCruiser]

I would have thought you should be able to feel it by hand Shayne.

 

[Shayne]

Feels tight Rich but i think i have a wee bit more horsepower in my shoulders than i do in my fingers and the noise only happens under power .

 

[StarCruiser]

This is an odd one. Still, I would rather be exploring that than my Smart car gearbox 'computer says no' fault that is now totally stuffed rather than intermittent.
Hateful thing!!

 

[BobMurphy]

Well its not the clutch with front prop removed the bang is gone .

Is that with the Centre Diff locked ??

With the front prop gone, there is no load on the Chain Drive (with or without the diff locked).

With the centre diff 'open' and the front prop gone, the front prop companion flange will just be spinning - in the wrong direction!

It could therefore be Chain, Centre Diff or Front Axle Diff (or more than one of them).

I think we have been here before, I must re-read this thread.

Bob.

 

[Shayne]

Front prop removed and centre diff locked i went for a drive and all is good .

 

[StarCruiser]

I would say now, park with handbrake on, unlocked centre diff, in gear (repeat for each gear ideally) and see how much the front flange out from the transfer box rotates either way. This should show up any backlash in the drive train without being hampered by the front axle.