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LJ70 Build Thread!
- Thread starter Ben
- Start date
Landcruiser Power
New Member
- Joined
- Aug 18, 2011
- Messages
- 20
Nice one ben, I see you have a Manuel fuel pump, you will be happy with that! I don't no if you saw the vid I posted on here, you can see what these engines are capable of, ive been running that tune for 3 years now no problems
- Joined
- Oct 13, 2010
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thanks guys. 
[youtube:2ws8glxd]WiUpqIHZ9Ds[/youtube:2ws8glxd]
so 2 12 hour days, and the engine is running, but still not drivable.
need to:-
fit an air box and connect to snorkel.
sort out the throttle cable.
fill the power steering reservoir and bleed the system. if it will need bleeding?
bleed the clutch.
make a temporary exhaust, using pieces of the old 4-runner exhaust system.
paint the new engine mounts.
wiring. got loads of connectors on my loom, and loads of sensors on my engine, all of which need connecting. really i need an exploded diagram showing the new engine, and where all the various electrical connections are, and a wiring diagram for the 4-runner the engine came out of, and an LJ70 wiring diagram.
failing that, might have to get an auto electrician, if i can find a decent one.
also need to wire up the new fuel filter heater.
then i need to run the engine, and of course test drive it. and check for any leaks, in particular in the cooling system. if its all ok, i will drain the rad and refill it with coolant.
[youtube:2ws8glxd]WiUpqIHZ9Ds[/youtube:2ws8glxd]
so 2 12 hour days, and the engine is running, but still not drivable.
need to:-
fit an air box and connect to snorkel.
sort out the throttle cable.
fill the power steering reservoir and bleed the system. if it will need bleeding?
bleed the clutch.
make a temporary exhaust, using pieces of the old 4-runner exhaust system.
paint the new engine mounts.
wiring. got loads of connectors on my loom, and loads of sensors on my engine, all of which need connecting. really i need an exploded diagram showing the new engine, and where all the various electrical connections are, and a wiring diagram for the 4-runner the engine came out of, and an LJ70 wiring diagram.
failing that, might have to get an auto electrician, if i can find a decent one.
also need to wire up the new fuel filter heater.
then i need to run the engine, and of course test drive it. and check for any leaks, in particular in the cooling system. if its all ok, i will drain the rad and refill it with coolant.
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- Joined
- Oct 13, 2010
- Messages
- 6,058
- Country Flag
thanks guys.
its been a long hard week. been doing an hour everyday before work, and then working from 5pm till 9pm every night on it!
every thing seems to have taken longer than i envisaged, but this is in part down to me wanting everything to be perfect.
but i did drive her home tonight, and im very impressed with the new engine!
its been a long hard week. been doing an hour everyday before work, and then working from 5pm till 9pm every night on it!
every thing seems to have taken longer than i envisaged, but this is in part down to me wanting everything to be perfect.
but i did drive her home tonight, and im very impressed with the new engine!
AndyCook
Well-Known Member
great bit of work
if you still need a engine manual you there are links here for downloading the 1KTZE (but will be a bit different to the manual pump 1KZT you have)
http://www.hiluxsurf.co.uk/showthread.php?t=69003
keep up the good work and i look forward to see the action shots of the new 3l powereed 70
if you still need a engine manual you there are links here for downloading the 1KTZE (but will be a bit different to the manual pump 1KZT you have)
http://www.hiluxsurf.co.uk/showthread.php?t=69003
keep up the good work and i look forward to see the action shots of the new 3l powereed 70
ModelMakerMan
Well-Known Member
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- Jun 25, 2011
- Messages
- 599
- Country Flag
PM me your email if you want the manual for the 1KZT (manual pump). 
- Joined
- Oct 13, 2010
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- Country Flag
monday night i removed the throttle cable from the 4 runner.
i then removed the one off my LJ70, and compared the 2. very similar but a bit different.
fitted the 4 runner cable which was a bit fiddly, but worked well once fitted.
tuesday night i turned my attention to the air box. i decided i wanted to use a proper toyota airbox.
so 2 metal toyota air boxes, 1 LJ70 box and 1 4-runner air box.
the 4 runner one seemed to fit the best.
so got the box of rubber/silicon hoses out that ive got which i use when connecting snorkels up.
after spending a while going through and trying various hoses, found one that fitted nicely.
so i fitted it all together using plenty of RTV sealant and jubilee clips.
wednsday night i started on the exhaust. i will be getting a full stainless system made soon, but i wanted to make an exhaust so that i can drive the truck in the mean time.
so the view up at the exhaust manifold from underneath the truck. originally the exhaust manifold was in the drivers side wheel arch, and came down and ran along the side of the sill.
old 4 runner exhaust down pipe.
cut the end off.
bolted the first piece onto the manifold, then cut and tack welded another piece on.
hopefully a few inches will be enough clearance for the front prop, as it is right at the end.
havnt had chance yet, but want to lift the front of the truck up with the bobcat forks under the chassis and see how far down the front prop drops.
took it off and fully welded all the sections together.
bolted it back on the truck, and then used ratchet straps to hold the next section in place.
cut and tack welded in the next section.
then took it off and fully welded it.
last section, after cutting, grinding and tack welding it in place, took it off and fully welded it.
exhaust done, just had to drain the water out of the rad and re-fill it with 5litres of coolant and water, bleed the clutch and power steering, and then she was ready to take for a spin!
runs well and has lots of power!
just need to sort out a few electrical issues, in particular work out how to wire up the alternator and then im ready for my next laning trip.
i then removed the one off my LJ70, and compared the 2. very similar but a bit different.
fitted the 4 runner cable which was a bit fiddly, but worked well once fitted.
tuesday night i turned my attention to the air box. i decided i wanted to use a proper toyota airbox.
so 2 metal toyota air boxes, 1 LJ70 box and 1 4-runner air box.
the 4 runner one seemed to fit the best.
so got the box of rubber/silicon hoses out that ive got which i use when connecting snorkels up.
after spending a while going through and trying various hoses, found one that fitted nicely.
so i fitted it all together using plenty of RTV sealant and jubilee clips.
wednsday night i started on the exhaust. i will be getting a full stainless system made soon, but i wanted to make an exhaust so that i can drive the truck in the mean time.
so the view up at the exhaust manifold from underneath the truck. originally the exhaust manifold was in the drivers side wheel arch, and came down and ran along the side of the sill.
old 4 runner exhaust down pipe.
cut the end off.
bolted the first piece onto the manifold, then cut and tack welded another piece on.
hopefully a few inches will be enough clearance for the front prop, as it is right at the end.
havnt had chance yet, but want to lift the front of the truck up with the bobcat forks under the chassis and see how far down the front prop drops.
took it off and fully welded all the sections together.
bolted it back on the truck, and then used ratchet straps to hold the next section in place.
cut and tack welded in the next section.
then took it off and fully welded it.
last section, after cutting, grinding and tack welding it in place, took it off and fully welded it.
exhaust done, just had to drain the water out of the rad and re-fill it with 5litres of coolant and water, bleed the clutch and power steering, and then she was ready to take for a spin!
runs well and has lots of power!
just need to sort out a few electrical issues, in particular work out how to wire up the alternator and then im ready for my next laning trip.
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- Oct 13, 2010
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i decided to do some more on the rock sliders that i started building months and months ago.
the main reason why i didnt finish them before was because i wasnt sure whether my exhaust would still be running down the side of the sill, after my new engine went it. as this now isnt possible with the position of the new exhaust manifold, and the angle of the flange, i was ready to crack on with the sliders.
so.........................................
after taking a few measurements of my chassis, i started to cut the steel for the brackets that will clamp around my chassis, that the sliders will then mount to.
80mm x 8mm flat ive used for the brackets.
this is all the steel cut for the 2 rear mounts. (the front ones needed to be different.)
marked where i wanted my holes drilling, centre punched, then drilled the holes out to 12mm.
used some off cuts of 50mm box, and a piece of 3mm sheet steel, to give me the thickness of my chassis, +3mm to allow me to get them on and off.
i made the bottom pieces 10mm wider than where the sides would come to. this gave me 5mm each side, so i could get a decent weld down each side of the upright pieces.
welded them in place.
test fit on the chassis.
welded the other one together. so both rear brackets were now finished.
i then spent 10mins on my back under the truck thinking of how to attach the front brackets. i couldnt make them the same as the rear ones, as the chassis cross member was in the way.
so after coming up with a great idea, i made a cutting list, and cut all the steel to size.
again i clamped some 50mm box and 3mm steel in to give me the width of the chassis rail, but i also added a piece of 5mm aswell. this is because at the top of the bracket, it will need to go around a piece of 5mm steel where one of the body mounts is attached to the chassis.
welded on a 45mm long piece.
and another one on the other side.
i then fitted both of the brackets in position, and used a marker pen to mark the brackets where there was an existing hole in the body mounts on the chassis, as my new brackets will make use of this hole.
i then marked, centre punched, and drilled 2 12mm holes in some 50mm x 5mm flat steel.
all brackets finished.
i then mounted all the brackets in position on the chassis.
some pics showing the front brackets bolted in place, through the existing holes in the chassis.
had to temporarily unbolt the brake and fuel lines form the chassis to get the front drivers side bracket in place.
rear bracket on.
so both brackets bolted in position on the chassis.
so the rock sliders, that i made a few months ago, that have been sat gathering dust in the workshop.
used a hop up, and some bits of scrap wood to position the slider in place. i then used a string line around the tyres, to allow me to position the sliders in the correct place.
i decided after discussing it with Mitch, that the sliders needed to stick out almost as far as the tyres, but certainly no further, or they could be a hindrance when in deep ruts.
i was then able to measure the length of the piece of box that would connect the slider to the brackets, i also used a sliding bevel and engineers square to accurately measure the angle, that would need cutting on the end.
transferred this angle on to the saw.
and cut to length.
disconnected the batteries on the truck, and then tack welded the piece of box in place.
i then did the same for the front piece. once it was all tack welded together, i wanted to remove it so that i could get it on the bench and fully weld it all together.
in order to be able to remove it, i had to take 2 bolts out of the front radius arm, so that the arm would drop down and allow me to lower the new slider down.
i came to undo the radius arm bolts, and worryingly found them all to be only finger tight!
slider off.
on the bench ready to be fully welded.
all done.
other side next.
all tack welded together, just as it was starting to get dark.
on the bench ready for welding.
needed to finish the tube work, on the sliders.
so i drilled a hole in piece of tube on the pillar drill.
changed the drill bit for a hole saw, and using plenty of cutting fluid to keep the hole saw cool, drilled a hole through the tube.
once drilled, i transferred the tube to the main vice, and used the angle grinder to slice it in half, through the middle of the hole id just drilled.
needed a tiny bit of fettling to make it a perfect fit against the other tube.
measured, marked, and cut the tube to length. i then tapped it into position in the middle of the slider.
welded to the slider, ready to be welded to the other tube next.
did the same on the other slider, and the tube work was finished.
next, i measured and cut some pieces of steel to cap off the ends of the sliders.
i cut these pieces so that they were 3mm smaller, all the way around, than the box they are being welded to. this is so that once welded, i can grind the welds down using a flap wheel disk in the angle grinder and be left with lovely rounded corners, but still have the strength of the weld there. if i hadnt have done this they would have most likely fallen off, when i rounded the corners off.
welded, and then ground down.
did this on the other 3 ends. all finished now ready for painting.
hoping to get them painted tomorrow. decided against getting them powder coatedas i know there going to get some serious abuse, and what ever covering goes on them will most likely be come off when im driving over rocks. so with paint i can just touch them up every now and again.
the main reason why i didnt finish them before was because i wasnt sure whether my exhaust would still be running down the side of the sill, after my new engine went it. as this now isnt possible with the position of the new exhaust manifold, and the angle of the flange, i was ready to crack on with the sliders.
so.........................................
after taking a few measurements of my chassis, i started to cut the steel for the brackets that will clamp around my chassis, that the sliders will then mount to.
80mm x 8mm flat ive used for the brackets.
this is all the steel cut for the 2 rear mounts. (the front ones needed to be different.)
marked where i wanted my holes drilling, centre punched, then drilled the holes out to 12mm.
used some off cuts of 50mm box, and a piece of 3mm sheet steel, to give me the thickness of my chassis, +3mm to allow me to get them on and off.
i made the bottom pieces 10mm wider than where the sides would come to. this gave me 5mm each side, so i could get a decent weld down each side of the upright pieces.
welded them in place.
test fit on the chassis.
welded the other one together. so both rear brackets were now finished.
i then spent 10mins on my back under the truck thinking of how to attach the front brackets. i couldnt make them the same as the rear ones, as the chassis cross member was in the way.
so after coming up with a great idea, i made a cutting list, and cut all the steel to size.
again i clamped some 50mm box and 3mm steel in to give me the width of the chassis rail, but i also added a piece of 5mm aswell. this is because at the top of the bracket, it will need to go around a piece of 5mm steel where one of the body mounts is attached to the chassis.
welded on a 45mm long piece.
and another one on the other side.
i then fitted both of the brackets in position, and used a marker pen to mark the brackets where there was an existing hole in the body mounts on the chassis, as my new brackets will make use of this hole.
i then marked, centre punched, and drilled 2 12mm holes in some 50mm x 5mm flat steel.
all brackets finished.
i then mounted all the brackets in position on the chassis.
some pics showing the front brackets bolted in place, through the existing holes in the chassis.
had to temporarily unbolt the brake and fuel lines form the chassis to get the front drivers side bracket in place.
rear bracket on.
so both brackets bolted in position on the chassis.
so the rock sliders, that i made a few months ago, that have been sat gathering dust in the workshop.
used a hop up, and some bits of scrap wood to position the slider in place. i then used a string line around the tyres, to allow me to position the sliders in the correct place.
i decided after discussing it with Mitch, that the sliders needed to stick out almost as far as the tyres, but certainly no further, or they could be a hindrance when in deep ruts.
i was then able to measure the length of the piece of box that would connect the slider to the brackets, i also used a sliding bevel and engineers square to accurately measure the angle, that would need cutting on the end.
transferred this angle on to the saw.
and cut to length.
disconnected the batteries on the truck, and then tack welded the piece of box in place.
i then did the same for the front piece. once it was all tack welded together, i wanted to remove it so that i could get it on the bench and fully weld it all together.
in order to be able to remove it, i had to take 2 bolts out of the front radius arm, so that the arm would drop down and allow me to lower the new slider down.
i came to undo the radius arm bolts, and worryingly found them all to be only finger tight!
slider off.
on the bench ready to be fully welded.
all done.
other side next.
all tack welded together, just as it was starting to get dark.
on the bench ready for welding.
needed to finish the tube work, on the sliders.
so i drilled a hole in piece of tube on the pillar drill.
changed the drill bit for a hole saw, and using plenty of cutting fluid to keep the hole saw cool, drilled a hole through the tube.
once drilled, i transferred the tube to the main vice, and used the angle grinder to slice it in half, through the middle of the hole id just drilled.
needed a tiny bit of fettling to make it a perfect fit against the other tube.
measured, marked, and cut the tube to length. i then tapped it into position in the middle of the slider.
welded to the slider, ready to be welded to the other tube next.
did the same on the other slider, and the tube work was finished.
next, i measured and cut some pieces of steel to cap off the ends of the sliders.
i cut these pieces so that they were 3mm smaller, all the way around, than the box they are being welded to. this is so that once welded, i can grind the welds down using a flap wheel disk in the angle grinder and be left with lovely rounded corners, but still have the strength of the weld there. if i hadnt have done this they would have most likely fallen off, when i rounded the corners off.
welded, and then ground down.
did this on the other 3 ends. all finished now ready for painting.
hoping to get them painted tomorrow. decided against getting them powder coatedas i know there going to get some serious abuse, and what ever covering goes on them will most likely be come off when im driving over rocks. so with paint i can just touch them up every now and again.
Jimbo4x4
Well-Known Member
Mike n I always just slapped hammerite on the body armour of the old SJ for the same reason. Can't fault your work ethic though dude, must be the joys of a long distance relationship!Laura says well done for working so hard - she only got out of bed at 2.30 this afternoon!
Only thing I might be slightly worried about with this build; is the exhaust the lowest point under the front prop there? Looks from the pics like it's ripe for crushing on the way down a rock step
but can't really see the bigger picture on any of the photos...Keep up the good work chief
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- Oct 13, 2010
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thanks mate.
regarding the exhaust, i intend on making a guard that will mount to the gear box chassis cross member, and protect the exhaust and gearbox.
going to get a complete 2.5" exhaust system made in stainless very soon.
got to fab up a steering guard next, which should look really cool, with what ive got planned.
then after that rear bumper build.
regarding the exhaust, i intend on making a guard that will mount to the gear box chassis cross member, and protect the exhaust and gearbox.
going to get a complete 2.5" exhaust system made in stainless very soon.
got to fab up a steering guard next, which should look really cool, with what ive got planned.
then after that rear bumper build.
Roger Fairclough
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Dec 14, 2010
- Messages
- 1,106
Nice work Ben. Just a couple of points. The fuel lines look ominously close to the exhaust and your propshaft sliding joint needs some lube.
Roger
Roger
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thanks Roger.
when i first fitted the exhaust the original fuel lines were actually touching the exhaust.
so i replaced the rubber hoses with longer ones, and cable tied these as much out of the way as possible. the fuel lines are now 1.5"s away from the exhaust. which isnt ideal, but ive felt the lines after when the engine is up to temperature, and they are no where near hot enough to be a problem.
but when i get my new stainless exhaust made, i will get them to fit some sort of heat shield to that are of the exhaust.
im also carrying a full size fire extinguisher in the passenger foot well, until i get it sorted.
yes prop does need some attention, although i did fill every single greese nipple of both props before Lincomb.
when i first fitted the exhaust the original fuel lines were actually touching the exhaust.
so i replaced the rubber hoses with longer ones, and cable tied these as much out of the way as possible. the fuel lines are now 1.5"s away from the exhaust. which isnt ideal, but ive felt the lines after when the engine is up to temperature, and they are no where near hot enough to be a problem.
but when i get my new stainless exhaust made, i will get them to fit some sort of heat shield to that are of the exhaust.
im also carrying a full size fire extinguisher in the passenger foot well, until i get it sorted.
yes prop does need some attention, although i did fill every single greese nipple of both props before Lincomb.
