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Project 80: Codename Grey Ghost
- Thread starter Chris
- Start date
Is that all you've done?
Given all that bouncing up and down, you can't beat having a nice stiff one.This will be on the back side...
A lot of bouncing up and down calls for a nice stiff one on most occasions Chris!
Not sure about the rest....
It's looking just fine and coming along nicely!
Thank you Clive. 
Stu, can't really say what it weighs. Oddly I never thought to put it on the scales. It's quite heavy. 4mm plate throughout. I can't lift it with one hand, but with two it's manageable but not something you'd want to hold for long. It's awkward because the COG is off set due to the bits that meet the rear flares. Difficult to separate heavy from awkward if you know what I mean. I'd guess around the 35kg mark? Plus the brackets for the chassis too. Not as heavy as an ARB front bumper.
Stu, can't really say what it weighs. Oddly I never thought to put it on the scales. It's quite heavy. 4mm plate throughout. I can't lift it with one hand, but with two it's manageable but not something you'd want to hold for long. It's awkward because the COG is off set due to the bits that meet the rear flares. Difficult to separate heavy from awkward if you know what I mean. I'd guess around the 35kg mark? Plus the brackets for the chassis too. Not as heavy as an ARB front bumper.
Olazz
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Am I right in assuming from the pics, that you will not be putting a locking pin on the far end of the arm and only one at the pivot end CJ?
In addition, by having a piece of Delrin under the arm at the swivel end, will this not put considerable strain on both the kick bend and the far end where the weight is. Yes you'll have a retainer there too, but why the need for a retainer so close to the pin? (unless it is fractionally thinner than far end). Still don't see the need though.
In addition, by having a piece of Delrin under the arm at the swivel end, will this not put considerable strain on both the kick bend and the far end where the weight is. Yes you'll have a retainer there too, but why the need for a retainer so close to the pin? (unless it is fractionally thinner than far end). Still don't see the need though.
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Hi Lazz. No, that's not right. It does say in the build that there is another locking pin going at the end of the arm. A bigger version of the same thing actually. If you look again, I also said tonight that I may or maynot put the second lift pad under the arm. They are there at the second to get an exact level for positioning really. Not sure that there will be considerable strain, it's humongously strong and I have built a couple of these now without problem. I was contemplating, as you suggest, making the outer one marginally thinner so that any lift is progressive. I shall wait until the wheel is on the carrier first then decide. It's all options Chap, options. But as always, greatly appreciate the benefit of thoughts and experiences. Just want to get it right for when we hit those corrugations.
Just a thought Chris, although I agree it will be stronger, is there not a chance that condensation water will collect in the "lip"? You could drill a vent hole I suppose.
No Chris, not missed anything, just me not being very explicit (again)!
I was was referring to this picture (but it wouldn't copy/upload) and the blind thin vertical box overhanging the arm. When you weld it up you'll be left with a "pocket" that will collect water from condensation forming inside the box section.
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Right. I see now. err, I think that highly unlikely Clive. You could say that about any piece of box section welded to another. If I butt welded them, where would the water go then? It doesn't make any difference. I have to say I haven't come across this effect before and not sure where the condensation is going to come from. Both ends of that section which will be about 12" long will be fully seam welded. Not sure how much water in the air is going to be entombed in there. That tab hanging down isn't actually hollow. That is the wall thickness of the steel box - it's solid.
Think I'll be the other side of the turf before that rusts through. I'll squirt some oil in there before I weld it up if it will help you rest easier mate.
Think I'll be the other side of the turf before that rusts through. I'll squirt some oil in there before I weld it up if it will help you rest easier mate.
Only a thought, I've seen RHS used as fence posts bedded in concrete and they've rusted right through in 3-4 years. With some gravel at the bottom of the foundation and concrete poured around the post (so it can drain) they last 3 or 4 times longer.
Anyway, take your point on it being the thickness of the steel that I can see, and promise me a squib of oil in all closed boxes please, just to shut me up!
Anyway, take your point on it being the thickness of the steel that I can see, and promise me a squib of oil in all closed boxes please, just to shut me up!
38kg according to my fish scales inc brackets and close to what Chris estimated so must be right
And 138kg with the damn pin added. I do need another one on the other side Jon you were right. I need to balance the thing to make it easier to lug in and out of the garage.
Gone for tinting today. Fella rang me and asked if I knew it was soaking in the back footwell. It wasn't, but we have had torrential rain and with the rubbers being rock hard, I think it's leaked. It won't be back today unfortunately. They take the glass out, clean everything and make sure there is no grit or scrunge in there that will scratch the finished window. They were happy being handed the new rubbers to fit. Means they don't have to scrape the old ones clean. Was nice to have a drive in it this morning. Air con worked in demisting it.
Gone for tinting today. Fella rang me and asked if I knew it was soaking in the back footwell. It wasn't, but we have had torrential rain and with the rubbers being rock hard, I think it's leaked. It won't be back today unfortunately. They take the glass out, clean everything and make sure there is no grit or scrunge in there that will scratch the finished window. They were happy being handed the new rubbers to fit. Means they don't have to scrape the old ones clean. Was nice to have a drive in it this morning. Air con worked in demisting it.
Back from tinting today. They have done a super high quality job. It's faultless. There is only one scratch on the whole of the glass which is good. It can be seen, but hey. It's an 80 year old truck. It took them longer than they had planned. To start with they couldn't get the film to stick. The windows were so dirty they had to get all the chemicals out of the cupboard to get the layer of grime off. But the result. Wow, they are really clean. They have cleaned all the runners and mechanism as well as put the new rubber in. The windows actually 'swoosh' up and down.
I could have gone darker, but having had a darker tint before I didn't like it. At night I couldn't see out when looking over my shoulder. This is a 15%. When you look through the truck it doesn't seem that dark, but when you down into the cabin, I'm quite happy. They found some rust here and there and Dinitrolled it. So here it is.
I could have gone darker, but having had a darker tint before I didn't like it. At night I couldn't see out when looking over my shoulder. This is a 15%. When you look through the truck it doesn't seem that dark, but when you down into the cabin, I'm quite happy. They found some rust here and there and Dinitrolled it. So here it is.
Andrew Brierley
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Very nice job Chris.
