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Rope / manual winch - what strength to get?

Jon Wildsmith said:
My lecy winch feels like about 30 to 35kg
I'm sure the winch is about 30/35Kg then there's the wire rope 15Kgish, Roller fair lead 7Kg, 2nd/3rd battery ??Kg, Split charge relay, cables, isolators, nuts & bolts 5Kg ish, snatch block ?Kg then the big banana what are you going to mount that lot onto???????? Winch tray plus strengthening ??Kg or the big boys toy the winch bumper ???Kg :) All soon adds up & I bet it's not far off of 125Kg if not more :)

Ps - Not trying to start a war but it would be interesting to obtain the real figures :)

We worked out that the 15000lb Hydraulic set up on my m8's 90 you can see in the pics above running a PTO pump & 20Ltr oil tank with all of the pipes, gauges & bumper was knocking on for 200Kg & that's running a Plasma all be it a 22mm plasma :shock:

I've often seen this discusion about the weight of a lecy winch set up & no one ever really nails the figures it's always best guesses as I'm doing now :D Even the sellers of winches are unclear as to weather the weight stated for the winch includes the wire rope or not :roll: :D
 
Just had a dig around & found out that the Goodwinch TDS 9.5 & 12 with rope & roller fairlead are 40Kg & with plasma & ally fair lead are 25Kg :shock: Surprises me the difference in weight between the wire rope & plasma :) Now how heavy is a winch bumper :?: :D
 
Steve the Plasma (Dyneema) ropes are as light as a feather and the roller fair-leads weigh a tonne. So with washing line instrad of cable and alloy hawse the weight saving is considerable. My winch bumper isn't finished yet but currently I would have it about around 30kg or slightly less. A 4mm thick factory jobbie would come on around 50kg I would think. There there is lights to add of course. I wouldn't see any difficulty in reaching 100kgs plus for a winch and bumper with all the bobbins on it.
the 80 of course comes with two batteries to start with as do most of the LWB 90s. It seems to be the shorties that don't get the passenger side power pack.

Chris
 
A lot of what you list is incidental for most overlanders Steve. Extra batteries and split charge systems are for keeping the beer cold not running the winch :lol: and a 'winch' bumper is often an FPS first and somewhere handy to mount a winch second i.e. you will see a lot of overlanders with nice strong front bumpers and no winch to replace the rather feeble OEM bumper. For a lot of us the real weight differential is just the winch, dynema, hawse and maybe 0.75m of + & - power cable :)
 
Chris said:
You know my thoughts on electric V hydraulic.

It is an old old arguement to which there is no true winner. From my experience of being stuck while off roading I have never had a dead engine. I have however been off roading and killed the alternator. I have also seen lots of electric winches overheat or kill solenoid packs. I have put my money where my mouth is and am very happy with my choice.

Back to high lifts. I have one and firmly believe the best place for it is at the very back of the garage from where it will never see daylight. I have a Tirfor which lives in the boot for when the front mounted winch is not suitable. As has been said jacks for jacking and winches for winching.

Ian
 
It would seem that there are alot of strong arguments for all methods of winching all with pros & cons & as said earlier one mans meat is another mans poison but this has been quite an interesting & thought prevoking topic :D :clap: It's almost up there with 'A' frames I'd say :lol: It would seem that even with one individual method of winching for example lecy winches each man seems to have his own fairly strong & individual opinions upon how it should be done :p It's a mine field it is :p :p :D
 
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Chris said:
Steve the 80 of course comes with two batteries to start with as do most of the LWB 90s
Now you see I did that last post poped downstairs for me dinner & while having it thought about this two battery thing so here goes :) The second battery on the 90 series is just greedy & an add on for cold climes so could be used as a winch battery & seperated from the starting circuit quite happily with a split charge relay from what I understand of them :D But the 80 series second battery is an integral component of the starting circuit as it's 24volt & should it be flatened due to winching would render the vehicle dead in the mud would it not :? :?: :) So a third battery would be the most sensible course of action for the 80 series wouldn't it :?: :)
 
Absolutely mate, which is why most of us actually do have three batteries. But in fact from a good battery you can get a hell of a lot of winching. I rolled Lil Blue in Wales and hydro-locked the engine with oil (it wouldn't run so hydraulic winch would have been useless - come on Ian, I'm not having a go. Your new winch is majestic and you know it. And I had to get the vehicle back onto its wheels and off a hillside with the winch. I did all of that on the main battery and had enough to turn it over to blow the oil out of the glow plug holes and crank it until it started. The main thing is to keep your batteries fresh. Nominally, bin them every three years perhaps, regardless. Obviously the load makes a difference to consumption, so using a snatch block or three will reduce that requirement. You winch for longer but you reduce the draw from the cells. If there was a hydraulic winch with battery back up, I'd be signing the cheque.

Has anyone ever tried to start an 80 by bypassing one battery and putting 12v across the starter? I know I tested my starter off the 80 with 12v and it went like a good un.

Chris
 
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