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Who is doing what maintenance today?

Good stuff Grant, I hope Julian unleashes a few more ponies and torks. I saw those Allisport ones the other day on Julians stand. Quite impressive I've got to say. Another result is an adapter plate to attach a 12V Safari intake to a 24V intake manifold, that answers a question I have been pondering as I have a 12V safari intercooler kit but no 12V to put it on.

Andy

I certainly hope so - i'm sure it's not going to do anything for the fuel consumption though! I'm currently tossing up wether or not I get him to rebuild the front axle whilst it's there. Does Julian/Allisport make those adapter plates up?
 
I think it's a Safari component but I could be wrong, can you ask Julian and let me know? Fitting an Allard intercooler to my 12v 80 and running it for the next 13 years the regularly checked MPG didn't change but it was more responsive.

Andy
 
I'll try and remember when I pick it up ... but can't promise as it will be in around a months time. Pretty sure my economy will go down ... as with the 33"s on now I find power a bit lacking on steep hills & over taking. I won't be complaining when I'm going up them without slowing down though!
 
fitted these rails in the back of my Hilux today. They are for fixing wheelchairs into ambulances. You can clip the loops in and out to move them on the rail, or remove the loops completely if you need them out of the way.

I'll be fitting a set in the back of my landcruiser as well when the time comes.

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Not really maintainence, more jobs that have been planned. Last week I started doing something that was planned years back, that was to fit a false floor behind the two front seats to have on one side the Nat Luna fridge/freezer and the other, where I originally had a flight box for tools and spares when over-landing, now is going to be a built-in cabinet with shelves (yet to be constructed) that’ll be easier to access than having to move all the stuff at the top of the box because the bit you need is at the bottom.
The inverter is bolted to the floor for the time being, there will be a larger section of wood fitted against my rear drawer unit so the inverter can be mounted correctly in an upright position.
The wooden floor is firmly bolted down to the seat mounting points, leaving handy storage spaces underneath immediately behind the front seats, behind the passenger seat is the 2.5g air tank and stretchy air hose and behind the driver live my hydraulic bottle jack and handle.
When fitting the floor I cut a hole so the fuel tank panel can be accessed without having to remove the floor first.
I fitted a new synthetic rope to the winch as the old one was looking tired. I also installed the oil catcher I’ve had knocking about in the garage for ages.

New floor before


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New floor after with fridge mounting plate

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Tempory place for inveter

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Old winch line coming out

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Oil catcher

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Put the 33's onto the stock rims so will be swapping wheels over soon, picked up some rims for the focus to put winter tyres on, less hassle then swapping tyres over on the rims.
 
Further importance maintenance carried out today, fitted a bottle opener to the rear bumper, :lol: I'll touch up the screws later; :oops:

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Well, in 4 hours after work in the dark and the wet, I ........

Changed the two batteries, drained, flushed and refilled the coolant, topped up all the diffs, changed the air filter, fuel filter, oil and oil filter. Resurrected the centre diff lock and got the front locker working and locked. Currently the whereabouts of the rear locking action is unknown. Ran out of time and energy as the cam belt was next.

Phew. Right time for a kebab and a beer.
 
I "accidentally" noticed that my winch wasn't working when I tried to take up some slack to stop the hook rattling so much. I fitted it in January and fortunately hadn't needed it on our trip around Oz. When I flipped the switch I could hear the solenoid clicking but the motor wasn't turning. I would have taken a look at this several weeks ago when I discovered the problem, however I couldn't get the solenoid box off without removing the bullbar so had to wait until I could borrow my brother's engine hoist (I'm definitely getting one of these!).

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Both my antennas (UHF and GSM) are mounted on the bar and I didn't want to pull the cables back through the firewall, so I cut the cables and inserted some RG58 plugs (the same as the cables come with). This turned out to be a bit more expensive than I had thought as I also had to buy a new crimping tool and the plugs were almost $10 each (not a pair!).

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With the bar off I could get the solenoid box cover off and found that 2 of the 3 copper bar contacts had snapped off.

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So to solve both problems (access to the solenoid and broken copper bars) I decided to move the solenoid box into the right wing of the bar and replace the copper bars with 40mm cable.

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Everything seems to be working fine again. I'm a little disappointed that those parts broke so soon (the winch is only 9 months old), but I guess they weren't designed with corrugations in mind. My advice if you have one of these and are going to do lots of corrugations... change the copper rods before you need them.
 
Tidy!

How on earth did the copper break?
 
So to solve both problems (access to the solenoid and broken copper bars) I decided to move the solenoid box into the right wing of the bar and replace the copper bars with 40mm cable.

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Everything seems to be working fine again. I'm a little disappointed that those parts broke so soon (the winch is only 9 months old), but I guess they weren't designed with corrugations in mind. My advice if you have one of these and are going to do lots of corrugations... change the copper rods before you need them.


Ideally you should use heat shrink to cover the joint between your 40mm cable and terminals, and some terminal covers. Apart from that looks good. :thumbup:

I like the connectors you got for the UHF cable. :icon-biggrin:
 
How on earth did the copper break?

The corrugations in the Northern Territory can get quite bad, and go on for hours... I don't think my inadequate Iron Man suspension helped either - after an hour of corrugations it felt like they had no damping left at all, and then we would do another 4 or 5 hours sometimes. Actually I'm surprised at how well the truck held up with the relentless shaking.

Ideally you should use heat shrink to cover the joint between your 40mm cable and terminals, and some terminal covers.

I need to pick up some coloured heatshrink. Good idea on the terminal covers!
 
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