Who is doing what maintenance today?

[clivehorridge]

Good luck!

Some pics of the mountains wouldn't go amiss either!

 

[Chris]

Towpack, yes the two top springs ARE different. They were originally coloured too IIRC. And they do have to go in the right way round. I am doing my handbrake at the moment and have the same issue as you and I actually think I have one of the springs in back to front. I must have mixed them up the other day. Normally my HD is enough to lock the wheels on a wet road, but at the second they won't hold againist tickover on the flat. Has to be the answer.

 

[warrenpfo]

My handbrake also needs attention as the MOT place said when it's down the cable is still under tension and the pivots are not resting on their rubber stops. Whilst it still works I'm turning a blind eye as I hate drum brakes from my old VW beetle days..agh

 

[Chris]

It would be great if we could find someone to make all the bits inside in stainless. I'd pay for that! The crank and pins, top spreader plate etc. Three different metals all in contact in an area continuously exposed to water dirt and salt. Nice one Mr T.

 

[Gary820]

That reminds me my mot is due. I think the handbrake works

 

[fridayman]

I'm off to go test it in the mountains now. I'll post up some pics when I get back this afternoon.

I can't believe what a difference the intercooler is making. I did make some other changes too though... I re-located the Econokit hoses and reactor to take the bends out of the hoses which should in theory make it more efficient and deliver more water. This required some drilling and trimming of the exhaust manifold heat shield. The yellow tubing is just some flexible heat shield to give the silicone hose a bit more protection where it is touching the shield.



And I removed the throttle body butterfly. The biggest challenge on the 1KZ-TE is getting more air through it, so the throttle butterfly just seems a pointless restriction to me - its only fully open at full throttle and I never drive full throttle. At all part throttles it is just limiting the amount of air going into the motor. With the butterfly removed it does make a very small judder on shutdown, but only I notice it really. In case anyone wants to do this too, be aware that the little screws holding it in, are flattened on the ends to that the cannot be screwed out - they need to be drilled out (make sure you catch all the filings/swarf). I didn't get any pics of this.

The intercooler install wasn't all straight forward. At first I was going to fit the proper intake manifold that is intended for the intercooled 1KZ-TE, but after seeing where the throttle wheel and throttle position sensors sit on the new manifold, I decided that the easier option is to make a throttle body to intercooler adaptor plate and throttle wheel mounting bracket (similar to what Shayne did). My first version of the adaptor plate was very clever and positioned the tube part of the adaptor perfectly vertical (the face of the throttle body slopes in toward the engine). What I had not accounted for in this version was the non-intercooled manifold is actually almost an inch wider than the intercooled version. So this happened...



So I had to modify the adaptor to have the tube part come out perpendicular to the flange, and then use flexible silicone hose to make the small bend. As I couldn't find a 20 degree bend I tried to modify a 45 degree bend, but that didn't really work so well and I ended up using a straight piece of 2.5" silicone hose.



Because of the 1" body lift I also bought a longer piece of 2.5" hose to go on the turbo side, except when it came time to fit it I found out that it is 2" hose on that side... Doh! So I used the std hose to make 2 inner sleaves so that I could use the bigger diameter hose. It seems to be holding up, but this will be replaced with a decent 2" hose asap.

The throttle cable guide was mounted to the standard intake pipe, so I made a small bracket that bolts onto the intake manifold.



Cutting the bonnet took much longer than I thought it would. I bought a proper hilux scoop because I liked that it came with mounting tabs, and isn't just sikaflexed on. It took a bit of trial and error to get the hole in the right place, and in the right shape (like a fat T shape), rather cutting too little and then taking a bit more off where needed. I first drilled 4 1" holes with a hole saw and then tried to cut the straight lines with a reciprocating saw. This didn't go too well as the saw is a bit of a hand full when cutting something with too much flex in it like a bonnet - it kept grabbing the metal. I managed not to scratch the bonnet with it, but after just one cut swapped it for the grinder with a thin metal cutting disc. I would have prefered to use the jigsaw (like I did with the snorkel), but the blade wouldn't be long enough with the double skinned bonnet and would probably not have worked. I managed to position it so that I could still use the standard rubber bonnet seal.



The scoop has 8 mounting points, but for some reason the 3 front points protrude beneath the mounting surface of the scoop, so it lifted the front of the scoop leaving a 10mm gap at the front. In the end I cut the front tabs off and fixed it with a small cap head screw in the front. When it is all painted I will fit a black cap head so that it won't be as noticeable.





To help the airflow into the scoop I fitted an 8" fan onto the intercooler grill. There is a small gap between the intercooler and the grill which should be enough for the fan to create a high pressure area so that the air goes through the whole intercooler and not just around the outside where the fan blades are.



I then made a temporary shroud in true McGuyver fashion with some McGuyver tape. Without the shroud I could feel that some of the air was coming back up, rather than through the intercooler. I will replace this with a more permanent shroud asap.



The power for the fan is sourced from the wiper motor as it only comes on with the ignition fully on.



This live wire is then run to a relay via a 50C always open thermo switch, so that the fan only comes on when the intercooler gets over 50 degrees. This was just so that the fan doesn't always run when I need to have the ignition on without the car running for some reason, although for the life of me I can't think when I would have the ignition on for long enough that it would matter. But I did it anyway in case that ever happens... The thermo switch is just cable tied to the intercooler intake pipe.



And that was it (this pic was before I fitted the little mounting screw in front).



All that is left now is to have the scoop (and probably bonnet) painted, and I need to tidy up all the new wiring.

Best of all, there were hardly any bolts left over...

 

[Towpack]

Towpack, yes the two top springs ARE different. They were originally coloured too IIRC. And they do have to go in the right way round. I am doing my handbrake at the moment and have the same issue as you and I actually think I have one of the springs in back to front. I must have mixed them up the other day. Normally my HD is enough to lock the wheels on a wet road, but at the second they won't hold againist tickover on the flat. Has to be the answer.

I guess it's just me being unobservant. I've always been careful on previous stripdowns to mark the position of the springs and return them as was. After noticing the difference in springs for the first time the other day and not seeing anything else 'wrong' a just played a hunch and reversed the springs and the handbrake is the best I've ever known it. On a previous strip I found a partially siezed bell crank and the pivot on the axle was quite sticky and was convinced this was the cure but made no difference. Strange how the FSM makes no reference to the springs being different other than, "HINT: Assemble the parts in the correct direction".

 

[ratrace]

ok let me see


the landcruise gave it a wash she looks clean again

the paj MkII well let me see, fix the rear exhust

replace the three belts

The land rover
replace both rear brake dis'sc also new wheel bearings

found and fix small water leak

so a nice easy day

 

[Gary820]

Not really maintenance but was allowed to spend money
Picked up a new sat nav after mine packed in yesterday and got a new camera. Been wanting a new one for a while as mine broke a while ago.
Going to order a couple of extra batteries for it and a decent size memory card.

 

[warrenpfo]

Finally finished the sound proofing, well except the doors but they can wait until I swap the door cards over.

My little helper

Installed the driver seat ready for work tomorrow and the front carpet is nice and clean ready to go in as soon as the windscreen is replaced this week I hope.

Not much to show but I am pleased with the results and it should help make things more car like inside.

 

[Chas]

Yesterday I painted (with the help of SWMBO) the interior walls, today I carried out an important addition to the garage extension, I fitted a hook to hold the garage door open.

 

[karl webster]

Various jobs done on a gs I have .
Cleaned and washed gs and my black one.
Cleaned and waterproofed the new/old roof tent and found a way to mount on my 80 with keeping my roof bars on thanks Chris (Humber 4x4) and Warren.
Even had a helping hand from Holly today (the Girfriend )

 

[frank rabbets]

With regard to the handbrake although I am not familiar with the exact design of our 80 ones the following may help.

With the vehicle moving forward there is a leading shoe and trailing shoe on each side. With regard to the leading shoe the spring has 2 purposes :-

1. To return the shoe.
2. To limit the self servo action of the shoe.

If the stronger spring is put on the leading shoe the handbrake will be less effective than with the weaker one on. That is with the car moving forward.

The other shoe is the leading one when the car is going backwards.

Does that add up?

 

[Towpack]

With regard to the handbrake although I am not familiar with the exact design of our 80 ones the following may help.

With the vehicle moving forward there is a leading shoe and trailing shoe on each side. With regard to the leading shoe the spring has 2 purposes :-

1. To return the shoe.
2. To limit the self servo action of the shoe.

If the stronger spring is put on the leading shoe the handbrake will be less effective than with the weaker one on. That is with the car moving forward.

The other shoe is the leading one when the car is going backwards.

Does that add up?

Not really sure. The stronger spring was (and always has been) fitted to the rearmost or trailing shoe on mine. As I mentioned above I only tried swapping them over as it was just about the only thing I hadn't tried. The difference in the handbrake is night and day. The springs are different but not by a huge margin. I still find it hard to believe that such a relatively small difference can take the handbrake from a PITA to just about perfect, but what do I know!

 

[Beau]

Fitted a 65 litre auuxilary tank to my cruiser, very pleased with it! Will make a thread when I have some time!

I now now have a 800 mile range

 

[grantw]

Looking forward to that post Beau!

Another MOT done. The hand brake advisory from last year has vanished for this one! It's a self fixing cruiser

Saw Chas' phoenix parked on the street too.

 

[Chas]

Saw Chas' phoenix parked on the street too.

When, where?

 

[grantw]

About one and half hours ago parked on Morden road. Just down from Hankook's

 

[Chas]

About one and half hours ago parked on Morden road. Just down from Hankook's

Ah yes! just popped into the Docs to get a prescription. No, not that sort of prescription.

 

[Gary820]

Fitted a new rear recovery point to the 80. Supplied by humber 4x4