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My Cruiser

Unlucky rich. Easy to knock out now there's a hatch on the other side..:)
That should disappear in the right hands. Would be a shame to lose that sticker..
 
Easy and chip... :smile::smile:

Plus, you have an hummer to use at the camp site ;)

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Hmm, that’s not up to your usual standard Marco. :eusa-naughty:

:lol:
Edit

I didn’t see the above read ‘Hummer’.
As long as I don’t have to buy the fuel, that could be fun. At least I wouldn’t have to look at it if I’m in it. :lol:
 
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Edit

I didn’t see the above read ‘Hummer’.
As long as I don’t have to buy the fuel, that could be fun. At least I wouldn’t have to look at it if I’m in it. :lol:

I've spent all day to understand your post :sweatsmile:

I need to improve my English :smile:
 
I've spent all day to understand your post :sweatsmile:

I need to improve my English :smile:

I need to improve my reversing. :laughing-rolling:

There’s nothing wrong with your English Marco. I think the cursed ‘autocorrect Gremlin’ May have been at work changing Hammer (as in your pic) to:-

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Hummer.
 
Having stuffed my back (again :() trying to lift my roof tent off it’s stand to go to fake Lincomb last month,
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I decided to get on with the rest of the stand that is the mechanism to raise the tent up and onto the roof. This was always planned for, it just got left on the back burner rather too long.

The idea was to winch it up using a winch and webbing straps but I never worked out the finer detail so that idea got scrapped in favour of this.…
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An engine crane ram off eBay all the way from China provides the lifting force to two arms and a bar across the bottom lifting it rather like an up’n’over garage door.

It’s about 95% successful in that it lifts the tent adequately to the roof. However improvement is needed to stabilise the tent when just off the cradle as it has a tendency to lean backwards, balancing for the cradle when the tent isn’t on it as it wants to fall over and a receiver hitch for the truck as the cradle now fouls the tow bar. Other than that and having to pump over 100 times, I’m rather pleased with how it’s turned out. :)
 
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Had a little look yesterday at places to fit connectors for external equipment I intend fitting later. I've always looked at the inside reveal of the tailgate as a good possible spot to mount stuff discretely without drilling holes in the roof.
I found two positions to fit 50A Anderson connectors without fouling anything.
View attachment 124152 View attachment 124153

There should be plenty of room to fit wires through and around when the tailgate closes within reason. One of these will be for power to the roof tent, the other will be a different colour for connecting a solar panel if and when I get one.
Future plans are for some radio coax cables to run through if I can find suitable angled connectors and possibly lighting.

Hi

Did you end up fixing the plug here?

If so do you have and pics?

Thinking it might be a good place to mount them on my 100
 
Yes I did. The photo would be exactly the same as the pre fitting one but I’ll take one later and post it up to show the wiring.
 
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This one I use for solar panels

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This side feeds up to the roof rack.
Fixing is by Stainless 3mm screws into M3 nutserts and I’ve sealed the tops with a rubber compound called Sugru. Not cheap but very good. I also put a pad of Sugru behind each connector to help it sit firmly against the contours of the body there. I trimmed a little bit off the top corner to give clearance to the door and all is good.
Downsides are that you are limited to the cable size that can go out through the gap between the tailgate and the body and placement of these is key to stopping them being pinched unnecessarily.
Worth thinking of a bit of clear plastic body protector where the cables go though as they could cause a bit of localised wear to the paint over time.
 
View attachment 165237
This one I use for solar panels

View attachment 165238
This side feeds up to the roof rack.
Fixing is by Stainless 3mm screws into M3 nutserts and I’ve sealed the tops with a rubber compound called Sugru. Not cheap but very good. I also put a pad of Sugru behind each connector to help it sit firmly against the contours of the body there. I trimmed a little bit off the top corner to give clearance to the door and all is good.
Downsides are that you are limited to the cable size that can go out through the gap between the tailgate and the body and placement of these is key to stopping them being pinched unnecessarily.
Worth thinking of a bit of clear plastic body protector where the cables go though as they could cause a bit of localised wear to the paint over time.

Thank you, I think I'll end up doing something very similar.
 
If you remove the trim rubber round the aperture and gently ease the headlining down depending on which type you have, you can get in behind where there is plenty of room. There’s a lot of bits of metal come together there but easy enough to drill with a 20mm hole saw or step drill. I also made a bolted connection in behind there for an earth connection to the body. It is possible to fish the wires down the rear pillars but there’s all sorts of fun bits in there to get in the way of your fishing rod. It seemed to go better one way than the other but I remember it being a bit of a swine.
 
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Thanks for the info, It's going to be a while before I get to do any more work on my cruiser it's in Zimbabwe and I'm in the UK..
 
Thanks BL, kind of you to say so! Sadly mot much has happened to her since my last post. The dent is still there (obvs as we can’t travel to Romania to get it knocked out atm) and the winch is still sitting on my bench which is just as untidy, if not more so. Building work having taken over from cruiser fettling.
 
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Kitchen is done apart from a blind on the window H. Thing is, it has lead on to refurbing the lounge, hall, loo, creating a new bedroom, rewiring, re plumbing, underfloor heating and new boiler. In fact the whole bungalow. :lol: I’m on our bedroom at the minute with spare bed and bathroom left.

I could do a bit of a Ben and put up some pics I suppose.:think:
 
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