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Steps, rock rails, whatever...

I don't blame you avoiding ARB prices, and although I've not been very complementary about the tendency for ARB's products to rust, they are generally robust and well engineered.

I know nothing about alloy winch bumpers and other such accessories,no cant advise on that one.

My side bars are not Mad Max in that they have the strength to ward off collisions with other monster trucks, or anything like. It's my opinion that they're simply not intended for that purpose.

Side sliding into trees or generally parting brush en-route is a different matter and in that respect the ARB side bars work very well. On many occasions, my truck would have suffered quite severe body damage had I not had them fitted. I think they're ugly and was horrified when they were fitted, but over time I've got used to their look and the clinch for me is the damage that they've certainly prevented.

I like the look of the knuckle you've posted, but form the picture, I can't see how you'd mount that clamp onto a closed hoop configured front winch bumper. As you may be able to see from my photo, the side bar to hoop clamps are in 2 halves, making them easy to fit, with the only problem being the tendency for the bolts to rust, but using stainless bolts would solve that problem as discussed.

If you could get some slider steps made up (as in your earlier photo or similar) then I don't see that it would be too difficult to have them incorporate a forward facing stub tube of an appropriate diameter to receive a side bar tube.

Chris' efforts on tidy sliders look like the dogs danglies to me, a combination of his approach and the photos you've posted would be ideal.

Where would you get the side bars from, would be my question.

AFAIK, ARB only sell them with the step kit, so you'll probably have to get someone to fab them to measure. It's a complicated curve to clear the arches. You want them to be close, but obviously not touching the bodywork. Mine pass the wing coincident with the connection of the plastic over-arches and the steel wing panel. They are close, approximately finger thickness away from the wing/over-arch plastic, say 15-20mm at a guess.

My advice would be not to be tempted to attach the side bars to the wing, as any deflection in the bar in some impact would tend to buckle the wing, which is precisely what you're trying to avoid.

Good luck with the mission!
 
I don't blame you avoiding ARB prices, and although I've not been very complementary about the tendency for ARB's products to rust, they are generally robust and well engineered.

I know nothing about alloy winch bumpers and other such accessories,no cant advise on that one.

My side bars are not Mad Max in that they have the strength to ward off collisions with other monster trucks, or anything like. It's my opinion that they're simply not intended for that purpose.

Side sliding into trees or generally parting brush en-route is a different matter and in that respect the ARB side bars work very well. On many occasions, my truck would have suffered quite severe body damage had I not had them fitted. I think they're ugly and was horrified when they were fitted, but over time I've got used to their look and the clinch for me is the damage that they've certainly prevented.

I like the look of the knuckle you've posted, but form the picture, I can't see how you'd mount that clamp onto a closed hoop configured front winch bumper. As you may be able to see from my photo, the side bar to hoop clamps are in 2 halves, making them easy to fit, with the only problem being the tendency for the bolts to rust, but using stainless bolts would solve that problem as discussed.

If you could get some slider steps made up (as in your earlier photo or similar) then I don't see that it would be too difficult to have them incorporate a forward facing stub tube of an appropriate diameter to receive a side bar tube.

Chris' efforts on tidy sliders look like the dogs danglies to me, a combination of his approach and the photos you've posted would be ideal.

Where would you get the side bars from, would be my question.

AFAIK, ARB only sell them with the step kit, so you'll probably have to get someone to fab them to measure. It's a complicated curve to clear the arches. You want them to be close, but obviously not touching the bodywork. Mine pass the wing coincident with the connection of the plastic over-arches and the steel wing panel. They are close, approximately finger thickness away from the wing/over-arch plastic, say 15-20mm at a guess.

My advice would be not to be tempted to attach the side bars to the wing, as any deflection in the bar in some impact would tend to buckle the wing, which is precisely what you're trying to avoid.

Good luck with the mission!

I actually think the side bars look great but then in New Zealand they're on everything 4x4 almost. Maybe ive just got used to the look.

Hahah Clive you're absolutely right, it's my job to remember to slide the knuckle onto the loop BEFORE its welded. (I'm gonna write that on my hand that day)

I'm going to have to have someone fashion up the side bars , Youve actually answered a few of the questions i had regarding spacing between them and the wing/arch.

I'm in discussion with JV at the moment :) so i shall hopefully have some sliders waiting when i return in June and by then i should have a definative design and something to guage where to bend the sidebars.

I'll be bugging you for pictures at that point Clive :whistle:
 
Mmmm, sounds like I'll need to give the truck a rinse then :thumbup:

I'll get some plan and side elevation shots prepared then, so you can see something of the profiles.

Julian might already have access to some plans....
 
i dont want steps,just tubular sliders
wouldn't it be easier and stronger to just fabricate then weld them onto the chassis?

cheers
 
i dont want steps,just tubular sliders
wouldn't it be easier and stronger to just fabricate then weld them onto the chassis?

cheers

Apparently the welding process affects the strength of the chassis itself, Weakening it apparently.
I can only confirm from welding flanges on pipes at work, we insist on post weld heat treatment where the welded area is heated with a jacket in different stages over a number of days to ensure the weld isnt brittle.
 
It might sound easy, but there are all sorts of cables and brake pipes etc that could be affected. Plus you'd have to grind away any good coating to weld to bare steel and it would mostly be vertical welding which is not everyone's strongest skill. Might not be so bad on a ramp but lying on the floor it would be horrid.

I wouldn't do it that way. Round sliders underneath for rocks would be good, sure. But my experience of these things is that the side tree bars are by far more useful on a long 80. I can only recall grinding on the under bars once. But the tree bars actually became a way of getting round things. If you make them without tops, they are deadly to try and stand on to get into the cabin.
 
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With sliders. .. if they get a hell of a heavy hit. Welded can contribute to twisting the chassis rail. If bolted it's more likely that the bolts will break and not do the twisting damage. .. Not very often get a real heavy hit but could happen. :thumbup:
 
I think I have a set of those sidebar to bulbar joints, ARB ones. I don't need them. When I got the ARB rear bumper for my hilux, I got sent a sidestep fitting kit in error, which has those joints.
If you cover postage, I can send them - assuming you are in UK?

Hi Andy

Id be interested in the joints if they are still available.

Regards Tom
 
I've always considered the u-bolt fixing to be adequate and at the same time weak enough to protect the chassis in extreme circumstances.

I agree with Chris that they are most effective as protection against tree damage, and that you could use them to negotiate trees as a pivot point to a turn, especially on side slopes when the going is slippery. Done that many, many times.

Even my steps (and I'll never pretend they are sliders) work well on trees, as the tube is strong enough to take a lean of the trucks weight, if not the full force (such as a jacking point or a proper slider would).

Plus, I know for a fact that if I didn't have a tread on the top as a step, I'd have put my food between the bar and the sill on many occasions, probably breaking my ankle in the process. If the slider or bar is not sufficiently spaced from the sill, then they're not going to work very well as side protection, and I'm sure you'll end up ripping off arches sooner or later as a consequence.

JMO of course.
 
thanks for that lads,a definite no no then

i like the idea of the tree-turn slider to aid the swivel :)

i drive very slow but i know it's only a matter of time before i really bend something on the body

cheers
 
For anyone interested, I took a few pics of the drivers side (LHD) side bar just to give an idea of the shape.

Didn't wash the truck either, so you'll have to make do. I'm off to Oman tomorrow for a week, but when I'm back I could do some measuring as well if it might help.

Looking along the tube, you can see it cranks in towards the headlamp to follow the curvature of the wing.
image.jpeg

Same view along the bar from the opposite direction
image.jpeg

Side-on profile
image.jpeg

A view from the top, the front half, not so easy clambering up, good job I've got steps...:shifty:
image.jpeg

The back half from the top, showing how the bar is cranked in as it drops down to the front end of the step...
image.jpeg

Another angle, showing the step coming into view...
image.jpeg

The connection to the step tube, told you the step tube gets a load of stone chips and rusts. Mind, I've never painted them since fitting them, about 8 or 9 years ago...time I did methinks....
image.jpeg

Shout if anyone wants measurements...

image.jpeg image.jpeg image.jpeg image.jpeg image.jpeg image.jpeg image.jpeg
 
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For anyone interested, I took a few pics of the drivers side (LHD) side bar just to give an idea of the shape.

Didn't wash the truck either, so you'll have to make do. I'm off to Oman tomorrow for a week, but when I'm back I could do some measuring as well if it might help.

Looking along the tube, you can see it cranks in towards the headlamp to follow the curvature of the wing.
View attachment 25392

Same view along the bar from the opposite direction
View attachment 25393

Side-on profile
View attachment 25394

A view from the top, the front half, not so easy clambering up, good job I've got steps...:shifty:
View attachment 25395

The back half from the top, showing how the bar is cranked in as it drops down to the front end of the step...
View attachment 25396

Another angle, showing the step coming into view...
View attachment 25397

The connection to the step tube, told you the step tube gets a load of stone chips and rusts. Mind, I've never painted them since fitting them, about 8 or 9 years ago...time I did methinks....
View attachment 25398

Shout if anyone wants measurements...

Thanks so much :)

Thats exactly what i needed, I hadn't realised the tube is bent inwards before it meets the bullbar.

I also thought the bar came upwards from the step vertically so its helped a lot, Thanks Clive

Ah enjoy Oman, It's the one place ive not been yet in the gulf but i hear a lot of good things
 
There's not much for me to enjoy there, only a fight over huge sums of money, work, work and some more, I'm afraid.

The north of Oman is much like the rest of the gulf, but the south is more temperate, green and lush with grass and trees and stuff! I'll be in the north, where the landscape is more akin to the moon, with high solid black rock mountains.
 
There's not much for me to enjoy there, only a fight over huge sums of money, work, work and some more, I'm afraid.

The north of Oman is much like the rest of the gulf, but the south is more temperate, green and lush with grass and trees and stuff! I'll be in the north, where the landscape is more akin to the moon, with high solid black rock mountains.

Wow mountains :) Some of the blandest landscapes on earth is in the gulf
I remember being in Kuwait and it was just beige and flat and the duststorms made it hard to tell the difference between sky and land.
I saw some grass after being in the desert for 8 months without a break and i was the crazy guy walking barefoot in circles on a roundabout in Kuwait city.
 
Yep, Qatar is a flat rock covered with dust!

But Doha is growing fast and has irrigated green areas and flower beds. Just landed, now in transit lounge.
 
Yep, Qatar is a flat rock covered with dust!

But Doha is growing fast and has irrigated green areas and flower beds. Just landed, now in transit lounge.

Know it well , Look out for a 25 foot tall teddy bear !!

One of my Indian fellas won a million dollars on the raffle draw at the airport. He carried on working for 6 months after winning, Every working day would start by me telling him to "#@$% off home"
 
Truly enormous, but I think hideous and somehow sinister, but I'm sure not intentional. A million dollars is some win, well done that man!

Here's superted...

image.jpg
 
You can get pre-made on euro4x4 not sure which length might fit.
97849e4d6cc07e955dac5ca00db97baa.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
For anyone interested, I took a few pics of the drivers side (LHD) side bar just to give an idea of the shape.

Didn't wash the truck either, so you'll have to make do. I'm off to Oman tomorrow for a week, but when I'm back I could do some measuring as well if it might help.

Looking along the tube, you can see it cranks in towards the headlamp to follow the curvature of the wing.
View attachment 36876

Same view along the bar from the opposite direction
View attachment 36877

Side-on profile
View attachment 36878

A view from the top, the front half, not so easy clambering up, good job I've got steps...:shifty:
View attachment 36879

The back half from the top, showing how the bar is cranked in as it drops down to the front end of the step...
View attachment 36880

Another angle, showing the step coming into view...
View attachment 36881

The connection to the step tube, told you the step tube gets a load of stone chips and rusts. Mind, I've never painted them since fitting them, about 8 or 9 years ago...time I did methinks....
View attachment 36882

Shout if anyone wants measurements...

Hi Clive. I there any chance of you getting this measurement (The white line on the picture) at some point ?
No hurry as such just need to get the tube bent up for the rest of the bumper build

Clive.jpg
 
Hi HW, it's one foot exactly, or 305mm in new money.

Here's a photo, but the angle of the camera makes measurement from photos almost impossible.

To give an idea of the "aperture" for the headlamps, the top of the bottom tube is 120mm from the flat top of the bumper.

IMG_8668.JPG


I realize my measurement is taken further in, but the top rail and the bumper top plate are as good as horizontal.
 
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